Tag Archives: Smith Rock

Escaping out to the high Desert in February

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Weekend of 04, 05, and 06-Feb-2022

***Warning: Ben get’s philosophical and emotional in this one. Just… be aware that, for this blog post, Ben has effectively been replaced by a less capable Ernest Hemmingway, imagining that he’s adrift at sea in the Old Man’s boat…**





Racing shadows under moonlight,
Through the desert on a hot night.
And for a second there we’d won,
Yeah, we were innocent and young…


– “Miss Atomic Bomb”, by The Killers



The Mustang growled happily as it gulped the cold air. We tore through the wide open curves of the lonely desert highway, and reveled in the lack of anything resembling a speed limit this far away from civilization.

The night was cold, and the air was colder. Cold enough that I probably should have put the top up… but warm enough that the Mustang’s heaters could keep the chill at bay. My hands happily numb on the wheel, the wind cut across my face blowing the tears from my eyes, across my cheeks.

I was sad. I was crushingly lonely, and I was thankful for it.

Thankful to be myself, and to be here. Even if it meant being myself, and being here, alone.




I left town an hour or so past noon on a Friday.

The goal of the long weekend was to escape town for a while and disconnect as best I could… while reconnecting with the freezing cold of the winter desert. And, you know, maybe reconnecting with some outdoor rock climbing while I was at it.

I wasn’t holding myself to any lofty goals or detailed timelines, though… Which was good, since I’d originally targeted leaving the house a little before noon.

Instead, this was a weekend to get out, get some fresh desert air, and enjoy the quiet. I’d brought a few books, some interesting things to cook, and even stopped to pick up some firewood. I had tasty things for lunches, a 5-gallon jug of water, and a rough plan on where to camp. No computer, no expectations of cell signal, and enough time to easily drive and make camp before sundown.



I made camp a little bit before dark, with the sunset was still blazing across the sky. I’d stopped a few times along the way, either to appreciate the views or just to see something that I’d passed a dozen times before but never quite had the time to stop and see. This year is my year to go slowly and to appreciate the little things… and sometimes that means getting to camp a little bit later than planned.

But that’s fine – I’ve got my system down pretty well on my own, and without the complications of coordinating multiple people I can usually get everything set up, and my dinner going, within 15 minutes of choosing a campsite. That night was no exception, and soon enough I had my dinner heating up as I was building a small fire in the nearby fire pit.



I didn’t read, that first night.

I had my phone turned off, too.


I just… existed. I was as quiet as the hills around me, and simply listened to the fire crackle and the wind whisper.

It was harder than it sounds, interestingly. I kept reaching for my phone to write down some thought, or to look up some fact. I ended up tossing it in the tent; same with my book, actually. Both were sent into exile where I couldn’t lean on them for distraction.


It would be easy to distract myself from how I was feeling, and how obvious my solitude was, on a night like that. Cold, quiet, and… empty.

Deserts have an emptiness that isn’t as evident in other places. I don’t really know how to describe it, except that it’s empty in the the same way that the low humidity and lack of clouds can pull the heat of the day away startlingly quickly. You feel lonelier quicker, as if the heat evaporating takes any sense of companionship with it.

I slept deeply, once I did finally turn in.





The next morning broke bright and warm. Or… freezing cold at first, but quickly warming up everywhere the sun blazed down. I woke up slowly, stretched, and did some jumping jacks while breakfast heated up.

A quick and simple breakfast for one – oatmeal, sausage, and coffee. A cold glass of water to help shock my system into full burn, and a quick walk around camp to make sure everything was battened down tight for the day. Then, the late morning sun saw me driving toward Smith Rock and my adventure.



Frankly, being around the crowds at Smith didn’t help my feelings of ennui and isolation. I’m not saying it was bad, mind you! It was absolutely the opposite – Seeing all the climbers, and remembering all the adventures I’d had on those same routes, was cathartic for me.

Like bleeding an infected wound, it helped to just get it all out of my system. Remembering all the amazing times… and at the same time, remembering how quickly they’d flow into horrible times. The peaks and valleys, mirroring the high cliffs and steep drops all around me.



I hiked.

I walked around, and explored the ins and outs of the cliffsides.

I bouldered. I stopped, put on my shoes, and did short climbs up and long climbs around.


I stayed close to the ground almost the whole time – Fear was absolutely a symptom of the emotional purge that I was going through, and I was terrified of injuring myself and being left alone at the base of a cliff. It threatened to overwhelm me the whole time.

I’m used to that. I know how to deal with fear while rock climbing.

Fear’s a part of rock climbing, almost as much so as a harness and a rope. Recognizing that fear is simply our reptilian hind-brain thrashing against our intellect is one of the cornerstones of my activity of choice, and I loved it. Bringing that reptilian hind-brain to heel, and feeling the triumph of my conscious self over my instinctual self, is the greatest victory in climbing.

I acknowledged the fear, and like Paul Atreides in Dune I allowed it to pass over me and through me. I stayed safe, and didn’t push myself or risk injury… but I also didn’t stop, and didn’t unnecessarily limit myself. I stretched out, and enjoyed climbing.

(Ed Note: See the ‘Litany against Fear’ attribution at the end of the post. Interesting fact – This is the mantra that Ben repeats to himself before job interviews, or other big events!)



I didn’t keep track of how many routes that I did, but I do know that I tracked the Sun’s travel across the sky with an eye for when sunset would be.

I used an old trick that I’d learned – If you hold your hand between the sun and the horizon, each finger is approximately 15min until sunset.

I was still avoiding my phone – I used it for pictures, obviously, but I didn’t take it out for anything else. No clock, no google, no random messages on random apps… I continued to embrace the solitude, and simply revel in feeling here and now.

I made a detour past an area that I’d enjoyed climbing in the past – a section of Smith called “Pleasure Palace” – and was yet again reminded of previous trips. A couple, much older than I, was struggling up one of my favorite routes. One of them was on the route, and having a rough time of it… they’d broken their shoulder, I learned, and were still rehabbing it. But, again mirroring my own experiences, didn’t want to wait to fully heal before starting up exceptionally challenging routes.

I wasn’t jealous of the partner left belaying, who had to listen to the stream of frustration about how the rock wasn’t fair and that this route was horrible. Nothing about their own injury, of course… or how much they were setting themselves back by over-using an injured limb… though I do give full credit that they finished the route out as I was hiking away.



The sun started setting.

I’d easily made it to the summit of the Smith Rock cluster before the sunset really started taking, so I decided against enjoying the views from the top. I was a bit impatient, and I could tell the true sunset was still at least 20min away… and more over, the summit block wasn’t as lonely as the rest of my hike had been.

There were maybe a dozen people, and I had actually been tempted to join them. Partially for the comradery, but partially because of how amazingly still many of them were. I’ve gotten so accustomed to people taking infinite selfies, or even having someone else take their picture modeling one product or another, that I actually stopped just to appreciate how everyone was just… sitting. Watching the sun.


I followed their lead as I hiked out.

The sun set behind me, and as I got to a lovely small bench I just stopped, put down my pack, and sat.

I didn’t time it, but I’d guess that I sat there for 20 minutes or more, just watching people hiking out and watching the sun dip and the sky blaze. Blue turned to orange, to red, to purple, and then to black before I picked up my bag and headed back to camp.



I’d planned to go back to camp, when I left Smith.

I didn’t. I passed the turn off, and turned the music up. I drove.

I was listening to “BattleBorn”, by the Killers… specifically, “Miss Atomic Bomb”. The lyrics have always spoken to me, but tonight was more. As my friend Daniel reminds me pretty regularly, it’s perfectly logical that The Killers resonate with the desert… the band is from Las Vegas, and somehow their music carries the feeling of the desert air with it.

That night, it carried a bit harder than it had before.

I kept driving. My hands went numb from the cold, but it wasn’t a painful numb… it was the cold numbness that comes after you’ve felt all you’ve needed to feel. It mirrored the tears in my eyes, and the salt tracks across my face that the wind was leaving.


When I finally made it back to camp, everything was right where I’d left it, waiting for me. I split the last few logs to make sure the fire got going quickly, and I stretched out. I ate, I finished the last of my dinner, and I embraced the night.

I read my book, that night. It wasn’t to distract myself though… it was a reward for coming out the other side of my mini spirit quest, as the fire burned brightly beside me.




Sunday morning dawned even more bright than Saturday – and it felt even warmer than the day before had. I’d had a nightmare that evening. Or… maybe there really had been coyotes screaming alongside people fighting as they ran from diesel trucks down the rough dirt road that led past my camp. Either way, I was glad for the sunlight, and glad for the warmth.

I made another small breakfast, but added some pancakes into the mix. They didn’t flip quite right, but I was feeling good… exceptionally good, in fact, and quickly pivoted and made them into a pancake scramble that I devoured enthusiastically.


I felt good. I felt better than good. I’d vented my sadness, and even though it was still there, it felt… manageable. I felt happy, and optimistic, and ready for the coming week.

I read, for a bit, before I packed up camp. I took my time – I only had to drive home, and maybe for worse but probably for better, I didn’t have anyone waiting for me.

I could take my time.




Racing shadows under moonlight,
Through the desert on a hot night.
And for a second there we’d won,
Yeah, we were innocent and young…

The dust cloud has settled, and my eyes are clear
But sometimes in dreams of impact I still hear…

– “Miss Atomic Bomb”, by The Killers




“Miss Atomic Bomb” music video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qok9Ialei4c

“Litany Against Fear”, from Frank Herbert’s Dune: https://dune.fandom.com/wiki/Litany_Against_Fear

A weekend of adventure – Visiting Smith Rock

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First Weekend of April – 02-Apr-2021 through 04-Apr-2021


It’s been a while since I’ve had a full adventure weekend. I’ve been kind of floating around between adventures this spring, not really sure what I want to be doing and feeling a bit aimless. I don’t know if it’s the longer days, the solitude, or what… but for better or worse, it’s been a real challenge motivating myself to do much else aside from go to work, go to the gym, and try to regenerate my energy at home by laying on the couch like a lazy bear.

This weekend, I planned it out. I set goals, timetables, and decided to move. To charge forward and to try and drive myself out of the funk that comes with the changing of the seasons!


Sunday, 04-Apr-2021


I drove and drove, through night and day
And in and out of weeks
And almost over a year

I watched the suburbs give way to forest
The forest give way to snow
The snow give way to forest
The forest give way to desert
And the desert, at last, give way to the rock

Then, I came to where the climber things are.



(Ed Note: Again, I really have nothing as to why Ben is being poetic. Spring time, maybe? This one’s… pretty solid though; Ben spent most of the long drive working on it, and I’m pretty proud of him)



It’s been a while since I’ve done a road trip. The last one was… Going out to the Wallowas, to hike out to Ice Lake, I think? So late last fall, right before the September snows started coming in. Yeah, quite a long time.

I’d been itching for it, and this weekend presented the perfect time to really embrace the adventure, and make a few solid memories… along with maybe taking a few good pictures for the photo album, if I’m lucky.


The main goal of the day was to explore. No stress, no rush, just get out of the house fairly early and then… just kind of go, you know? I was hoping to find some interesting spot to stop and get my Stepdad a good birthday present, and was aiming to hit up Smith, but aside from that… or even in what order… I didn’t have any specific requirements.

Which is kind of the optimal way to do a road trip… at least, when possible.


I started out early – having a quick cup of coffee and the heading out straight away. I tossed some random gear into the car; not a ton, but just enough for a few contingencies, and hit the road. Originally I’d planned on grabbing myself a breakfast sandwich or something, but… I don’t know, it just felt better to get some miles under my tires first, before making any stops.

I started composing that poem you read earlier as the forests of Mt. Hood gave way to the desert of Central Oregon… It felt good to be moving, and I appreciated the reminder of just how diverse the Oregon ecosystems actually are.

A quick stop along the banks of the Deschutes river was the only rest I took before I passed by Smith Rock.

I didn’t quite feel like stopping just yet, so I kept the pace going – I mentioned that I’d been wracking my brain for a birthday present, and I finally had figured it out! A thunder Egg!

I’d seen shops along the highway South of Smith Rock that sold Thunder Eggs, but I’d never had a chance to stop into any of them… I’m always rushing between adventures, or speeding along the highway in order to get home in time, but they’d still gotten filed away as one of those neat places that I wanted to explore someday, if the situation arose.

Well, today the situation arose.

The first place that I wanted to check out was closed, but soon enough I saw another sign off the side of the highway. You know the type, the kind of old and weathered sign crying out that there’s some world-famous thing just minutes off the highway, and that you’d be crazy to keep driving on by. The sign that was probably put up half a century ago, when people regularly drove across the country instead of flying, and probably had a full parking lot sometime back in the 70s.

Well, I took the exit and started my search. It was barely even an exit, really… more like a small pullout that led to an old and lonely desert road. But I still pulled off, and started the meandering trek following signs that seemed to get older and smaller the further I went from the highway.


I did stop to take a few pictures of said lone and lonely road, of course, just since it was so gorgeously scenic and empty… but also because the drive out to the rock garden was starting to drag onward a bit long… I nearly gave up, actually, after a particularly long stretch of road without any signs or updates on how much more “just off the highway” this dang place was…

Finally though, I saw the final sign: “Petersen Rock Garden, next right!”

I walked around, visited with the garden cats and the peacocks, and chatted with the great-grand daughter of the original builder in the rock shop on site.

I found the presents I was looking for… and even found a bit of peace and quiet in the empty gardens. I wandered around and enjoyed the silence until my legs started getting restless, and I felt the need to get back onto the road back toward Smith.



Desert flew by as I pointed the nose of the car back onto the highway. I went fairly direct, though didn’t immediately go for the highway… I enjoyed the back roads for a little longer, before jumping back into traffic on the main road… it was nice, and I was hugely appreciative of the simple smells of the desert. It’s been so long since I’d been out that way that I’d forgotten how everything smells like sage…



Anyways, I got to Smith Rock.

The parking lot was fairly full, but not nearly as full as I’d normally expect for a weekend… though the fact that it was mid-day on a Sunday may have been the cause of parking spots being available – maybe most people had already headed back toward the city, after a solid weekend of climbing.

There were still quite a few people though, and I ran into my fair share of folks as I walked in, and then as I started down the Misery Ridge trail… but soon enough I left the crowds behind as I moved deeper into the park, and I finally got to really stretch out and enjoy the solitude.

I mostly hiked, but did a little bit of bouldering as the opportunities presented themselves. It was sort of slow, just enjoying the air and the sun, and remembering all the climbs and times that I’d had at Smith up ’till now. Good and bad, positive and negative… just a ton of memories and emotions associated with the soaring rock faces.

It was simply lovely – fun hiking, a little exploring of the bases of the rock faces, and a lot of just appreciating the scenery and the simplicity of not being in the city anymore. I did have to stop a few times to replace my sunscreen, but aside from that and a few snack breaks, I mostly just wandered and explored.

I felt good – I remember the first time that I hiked at Smith Rock, and how winded I got as I charged up the switchbacks, at a slightly higher elevation than I was used to. Now, I was able to simply cruise – not charging, but not getting winded… really at all. I felt good, really good, and was glad to feel that all the cardio and gym time had been paying off.

The rest of the day… really wasn’t much. I hiked, I appreciated the scenery, and I got back to the car. I didn’t have any real dinner plans, but I wasn’t quite feeling like a dinner out… so instead I had a quick snack and then started back on the highway toward the city, and then down to Wilsonville.

The Sun set in the distance as I drove down the highway, through the empty desert and toward the peak of Mt. Hood, looming in the distance. I wasn’t planning on making it home before nightfall, but I’d timed it almost perfectly that I got to see the glimmer of sunset on the mountain as I drove onward.


The rock quickly gave way to endless desert
The desert gave way to sweeping forests
The trees gave way to drifts of snow
The snow gave way to the warm forest
And finally, the forest spread out and was replaced by suburbs, calling me home.



Thunder Egg link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderegg

Rock Garden Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petersen_Rock_Garden

A quick stop at Smith Rock, 13-Oct-2019

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Sunday, 13-October-2019

 

After spending the weekend in Bend, and the morning exploring the Newbury Volcanic Monument, we stopped into Smith Rock to take a quick tour of the climbing area.

 

We got some amazing pictures.

That’s… that’s kind of it.  It was a pretty quick stop.