Tag Archives: Bouldering

Escaping out to the high Desert in February

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Weekend of 04, 05, and 06-Feb-2022

***Warning: Ben get’s philosophical and emotional in this one. Just… be aware that, for this blog post, Ben has effectively been replaced by a less capable Ernest Hemmingway, imagining that he’s adrift at sea in the Old Man’s boat…**





Racing shadows under moonlight,
Through the desert on a hot night.
And for a second there we’d won,
Yeah, we were innocent and young…


– “Miss Atomic Bomb”, by The Killers



The Mustang growled happily as it gulped the cold air. We tore through the wide open curves of the lonely desert highway, and reveled in the lack of anything resembling a speed limit this far away from civilization.

The night was cold, and the air was colder. Cold enough that I probably should have put the top up… but warm enough that the Mustang’s heaters could keep the chill at bay. My hands happily numb on the wheel, the wind cut across my face blowing the tears from my eyes, across my cheeks.

I was sad. I was crushingly lonely, and I was thankful for it.

Thankful to be myself, and to be here. Even if it meant being myself, and being here, alone.




I left town an hour or so past noon on a Friday.

The goal of the long weekend was to escape town for a while and disconnect as best I could… while reconnecting with the freezing cold of the winter desert. And, you know, maybe reconnecting with some outdoor rock climbing while I was at it.

I wasn’t holding myself to any lofty goals or detailed timelines, though… Which was good, since I’d originally targeted leaving the house a little before noon.

Instead, this was a weekend to get out, get some fresh desert air, and enjoy the quiet. I’d brought a few books, some interesting things to cook, and even stopped to pick up some firewood. I had tasty things for lunches, a 5-gallon jug of water, and a rough plan on where to camp. No computer, no expectations of cell signal, and enough time to easily drive and make camp before sundown.



I made camp a little bit before dark, with the sunset was still blazing across the sky. I’d stopped a few times along the way, either to appreciate the views or just to see something that I’d passed a dozen times before but never quite had the time to stop and see. This year is my year to go slowly and to appreciate the little things… and sometimes that means getting to camp a little bit later than planned.

But that’s fine – I’ve got my system down pretty well on my own, and without the complications of coordinating multiple people I can usually get everything set up, and my dinner going, within 15 minutes of choosing a campsite. That night was no exception, and soon enough I had my dinner heating up as I was building a small fire in the nearby fire pit.



I didn’t read, that first night.

I had my phone turned off, too.


I just… existed. I was as quiet as the hills around me, and simply listened to the fire crackle and the wind whisper.

It was harder than it sounds, interestingly. I kept reaching for my phone to write down some thought, or to look up some fact. I ended up tossing it in the tent; same with my book, actually. Both were sent into exile where I couldn’t lean on them for distraction.


It would be easy to distract myself from how I was feeling, and how obvious my solitude was, on a night like that. Cold, quiet, and… empty.

Deserts have an emptiness that isn’t as evident in other places. I don’t really know how to describe it, except that it’s empty in the the same way that the low humidity and lack of clouds can pull the heat of the day away startlingly quickly. You feel lonelier quicker, as if the heat evaporating takes any sense of companionship with it.

I slept deeply, once I did finally turn in.





The next morning broke bright and warm. Or… freezing cold at first, but quickly warming up everywhere the sun blazed down. I woke up slowly, stretched, and did some jumping jacks while breakfast heated up.

A quick and simple breakfast for one – oatmeal, sausage, and coffee. A cold glass of water to help shock my system into full burn, and a quick walk around camp to make sure everything was battened down tight for the day. Then, the late morning sun saw me driving toward Smith Rock and my adventure.



Frankly, being around the crowds at Smith didn’t help my feelings of ennui and isolation. I’m not saying it was bad, mind you! It was absolutely the opposite – Seeing all the climbers, and remembering all the adventures I’d had on those same routes, was cathartic for me.

Like bleeding an infected wound, it helped to just get it all out of my system. Remembering all the amazing times… and at the same time, remembering how quickly they’d flow into horrible times. The peaks and valleys, mirroring the high cliffs and steep drops all around me.



I hiked.

I walked around, and explored the ins and outs of the cliffsides.

I bouldered. I stopped, put on my shoes, and did short climbs up and long climbs around.


I stayed close to the ground almost the whole time – Fear was absolutely a symptom of the emotional purge that I was going through, and I was terrified of injuring myself and being left alone at the base of a cliff. It threatened to overwhelm me the whole time.

I’m used to that. I know how to deal with fear while rock climbing.

Fear’s a part of rock climbing, almost as much so as a harness and a rope. Recognizing that fear is simply our reptilian hind-brain thrashing against our intellect is one of the cornerstones of my activity of choice, and I loved it. Bringing that reptilian hind-brain to heel, and feeling the triumph of my conscious self over my instinctual self, is the greatest victory in climbing.

I acknowledged the fear, and like Paul Atreides in Dune I allowed it to pass over me and through me. I stayed safe, and didn’t push myself or risk injury… but I also didn’t stop, and didn’t unnecessarily limit myself. I stretched out, and enjoyed climbing.

(Ed Note: See the ‘Litany against Fear’ attribution at the end of the post. Interesting fact – This is the mantra that Ben repeats to himself before job interviews, or other big events!)



I didn’t keep track of how many routes that I did, but I do know that I tracked the Sun’s travel across the sky with an eye for when sunset would be.

I used an old trick that I’d learned – If you hold your hand between the sun and the horizon, each finger is approximately 15min until sunset.

I was still avoiding my phone – I used it for pictures, obviously, but I didn’t take it out for anything else. No clock, no google, no random messages on random apps… I continued to embrace the solitude, and simply revel in feeling here and now.

I made a detour past an area that I’d enjoyed climbing in the past – a section of Smith called “Pleasure Palace” – and was yet again reminded of previous trips. A couple, much older than I, was struggling up one of my favorite routes. One of them was on the route, and having a rough time of it… they’d broken their shoulder, I learned, and were still rehabbing it. But, again mirroring my own experiences, didn’t want to wait to fully heal before starting up exceptionally challenging routes.

I wasn’t jealous of the partner left belaying, who had to listen to the stream of frustration about how the rock wasn’t fair and that this route was horrible. Nothing about their own injury, of course… or how much they were setting themselves back by over-using an injured limb… though I do give full credit that they finished the route out as I was hiking away.



The sun started setting.

I’d easily made it to the summit of the Smith Rock cluster before the sunset really started taking, so I decided against enjoying the views from the top. I was a bit impatient, and I could tell the true sunset was still at least 20min away… and more over, the summit block wasn’t as lonely as the rest of my hike had been.

There were maybe a dozen people, and I had actually been tempted to join them. Partially for the comradery, but partially because of how amazingly still many of them were. I’ve gotten so accustomed to people taking infinite selfies, or even having someone else take their picture modeling one product or another, that I actually stopped just to appreciate how everyone was just… sitting. Watching the sun.


I followed their lead as I hiked out.

The sun set behind me, and as I got to a lovely small bench I just stopped, put down my pack, and sat.

I didn’t time it, but I’d guess that I sat there for 20 minutes or more, just watching people hiking out and watching the sun dip and the sky blaze. Blue turned to orange, to red, to purple, and then to black before I picked up my bag and headed back to camp.



I’d planned to go back to camp, when I left Smith.

I didn’t. I passed the turn off, and turned the music up. I drove.

I was listening to “BattleBorn”, by the Killers… specifically, “Miss Atomic Bomb”. The lyrics have always spoken to me, but tonight was more. As my friend Daniel reminds me pretty regularly, it’s perfectly logical that The Killers resonate with the desert… the band is from Las Vegas, and somehow their music carries the feeling of the desert air with it.

That night, it carried a bit harder than it had before.

I kept driving. My hands went numb from the cold, but it wasn’t a painful numb… it was the cold numbness that comes after you’ve felt all you’ve needed to feel. It mirrored the tears in my eyes, and the salt tracks across my face that the wind was leaving.


When I finally made it back to camp, everything was right where I’d left it, waiting for me. I split the last few logs to make sure the fire got going quickly, and I stretched out. I ate, I finished the last of my dinner, and I embraced the night.

I read my book, that night. It wasn’t to distract myself though… it was a reward for coming out the other side of my mini spirit quest, as the fire burned brightly beside me.




Sunday morning dawned even more bright than Saturday – and it felt even warmer than the day before had. I’d had a nightmare that evening. Or… maybe there really had been coyotes screaming alongside people fighting as they ran from diesel trucks down the rough dirt road that led past my camp. Either way, I was glad for the sunlight, and glad for the warmth.

I made another small breakfast, but added some pancakes into the mix. They didn’t flip quite right, but I was feeling good… exceptionally good, in fact, and quickly pivoted and made them into a pancake scramble that I devoured enthusiastically.


I felt good. I felt better than good. I’d vented my sadness, and even though it was still there, it felt… manageable. I felt happy, and optimistic, and ready for the coming week.

I read, for a bit, before I packed up camp. I took my time – I only had to drive home, and maybe for worse but probably for better, I didn’t have anyone waiting for me.

I could take my time.




Racing shadows under moonlight,
Through the desert on a hot night.
And for a second there we’d won,
Yeah, we were innocent and young…

The dust cloud has settled, and my eyes are clear
But sometimes in dreams of impact I still hear…

– “Miss Atomic Bomb”, by The Killers




“Miss Atomic Bomb” music video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qok9Ialei4c

“Litany Against Fear”, from Frank Herbert’s Dune: https://dune.fandom.com/wiki/Litany_Against_Fear

A Spring Adventure – The Climbs

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Spring Break, 2021

I don’t recall having a real Spring Break trip last year… If I’m remembering correctly, I did a short Spring Break trip down to Joshua Tree back in 2019, but 2020 didn’t quite lend itself to much traveling…

With that in mind, and looking at how much vacation time I’d accumulated over the last year or so, I realized that I really did need to take some time off to escape from work, from Wilsonville, and from getting stuck in my own head. Thankfully, most travel restrictions on the West Coast have been lifted, and my back’s been feeling a lot better… and I was able to finally make the long trek down to Sacramento to visit my friend Mike and finally meet his girlfriend Michelle!

It was a long drive, and a full week of stepping out of my usual little patch of world. I didn’t really go into it expecting anything specific, but I came out having even more appreciation for my friends, and feeling gloriously rested and recharged. I’m not quite back to my old self yet… but this trip was an amazing change to stretch back into myself, and just… explore.



Monday and Friday, 03 and 07-May-2021


I haven’t been able to climb much since the pandemic hit. Even before that, I hadn’t been climbing a huge amount… And then it had mostly been in the gym in Portland, with maybe a few outdoor routes thrown in whenever I could. Climbing… is kind of hard, rolling solo, but I’ve been getting the chance to climb more and more as pandemic restrictions have been slowly pulling back.

Years back, Daniel and I had explored quite a few climbing gyms around the Boston area. It was something I’d really enjoyed – when the weather wasn’t cooperating, we’d pick a gym that we’d never been to and drive out to try some new routes. Maybe an hours drive, maybe two… I mean, we’d be driving the same distance to the crag anyways, so why not explore a plastic crag when it’s raining, right?

We got to experience some really neat gyms that way, and got a bit better at climbing unexpected routes – every gym sets their routes slightly differently, grades them a little harder or a little softer, and uses slightly different holds or features.



Anyways, that was years ago. I hadn’t done anything similar in way too long, so visiting Sacramento was a perfect time to refresh my soul and expand my experiences… at least in regard to climbing on plastic holds on fake rock walls.

There were a few gyms in Sac, but only one of them was both nearby and allowed non-members to climb… they did use a weird app to schedule times, but it wasn’t too bad to set up, and I was able to get time slots pretty easily both days that I went. It was a bouldering gym, but that worked pretty well for little old running solo me.


I had a blast.

I climbed, focusing mostly on form and the number of climbs, instead of trying to push my limits and climb the hardest routes possible. I did start pushing a little bit on the second day, but overarchingly I took it easy and just enjoyed the motion of climbing. The new holds, the interesting surroundings, and the bright sun streaming through the huge windows… it was excellent. It was absolutely excellent.

Climbing on Larch Mountain… or at least trying to

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Saturday, 01-Aug-2020

 

Some adventures are clean, clear, and go exactly as planned.

Other adventures are challenges, that are unpleasant in the moment but make memories that last a lifetime.

 

This adventure lay somewhere in between the two. It wasn’t bad, per se, but it definitely wasn’t as easy as one would have liked.

A quick quote from the trip summarizes it well, “Today isn’t the day that we sent the route. Today is the day we found the route.”

You see, we went looking for bouldering.

 

By now, I should know better. The Garden. The Rat Cave. Neither “famous, best in the area” climbing areas were easy to find – I still haven’t found The Rat Cave after five years living here. When Laurel and I settled on going to Larch Mountain… I should have been skeptical.

The guidebook seemed to have a good map, and showed solid climbing on good rock. Interesting routes, good moves, and safe landings. You know, all that good stuff that you look for in a bouldering area.

We did find it, at least. It did take a while though.

 

Thankfully, Laurel did the driving and so we had the four-wheel drive truck to help us grind our way up the questionable trails in Washington State. Nothing was too bad, but I was still glad that the Mustang wasn’t making the drive up, if only for the time savings that a solid two feet of extra clearance give!

So we drove. Parked. Looked around. Drove some more. Got turned around. Backed up down a scary-small road in a scary-large truck, and were thankful for backup cameras.

Finally, we found one extra landmark that made us pretty confident that we thought that we might have found the area we were looking for. Packed up, and started hiking in.

It was a longer, and steeper, hike than I’d expected we’d be taking, but it was a good chance to get some training in, and for us to just hang out and chat – never a bad thing, especially with views of the whole gorge like we had there.

After a while, we found it!

 

Weirdly, we missed about half of the area though… I think we passed it somehow? I’m not really sure. But we found ourselves hiking into the mid-point, which… you know what? After a hot and dusty hike? Sure. I’ll take it. Sounds good to me. Let’s eat.

The advantage of bouldering is that you bring a crash pad along for safety. Which, interestingly, is just a huge cushion. Sort of like a portable couch.

The disadvantage of bouldering is that you’re in rocky terrain, that doesn’t usually give you a comfortable area to place said couch.

So we settles onto the rocks, pulled out our sandwich parts, and ate.

Then we explored, did some bouldering, and… Man, I couldn’t really tell you what we climbed. Here’s my best bet, though…

  • VB – Two easy / fun routes near the East Fin of the Wild West cluster. Slabby, slightly mossy, but definitely a fun reminder of foot movements and sloper holds!
  • V2 – Meat Cleaver – Maybe? I think we did this one? It was really fun! Must easier if you skip the sit-start, and I couldn’t honestly tell you if I completed it cleanly with the sit start. But We met some cool other boulderers working this area, and both Laurel and I were able to rock most (if not all) of the route, so… I’m happy about it!

From The Wild West, we moved onward. The rock was okay, but the landings were pretty rough – the V2 that we worked was safer, thanks to 3 pads that the other folks brought, but on our own my single pad wasn’t quite enough to inspire confidence with the landings we were looking at.

So we ventured onward, in search for the mythical Leavenworth Boulder…

 

We did find it. After a lot of dust, small turns in a large truck, and bashing through brambles. We did, in fact, find it. Queue the quote above “Today is the day we found it.”

I’d thought I was smart when I wore shorts – It was going to be hot, so I figured that the less cloth would be a bonus. Laurel thought I was nuts, because she fully expected to be bushwacking and battering through brambles… so she wore pants.

I did not make the optimal decision. But, bloody and battered, I was able to break through the undergrowth to the boulders!

 

And… they were… interesting. To be frank, the only good route we found for the day was that V2 I mentioned above.  I mean, we did get to do a quick photoshoot for “king of the fairys” Biscuit, but… that was really the highlight.

In the Leavenworth and Black Forest boulder area, it looked like there’d be a ton of great routes… but we figured out that everything was based on it being winter, without the undergrowth clogging the pathways and landing zones. We tried a few lines, just to give it a sporting chance… but luck and climbing was not on our side, and every route just seemed to dead-end.

You know what, though?

Not every trip has to go ideally. Some trips can be challenging, hot, dusty, and have less-than-optimal endings. At the end of the day, we’d gotten to explore. Go outside. And even find a new area I’d never been to before.

And that? That makes this an excellent trip in my book.