Tag Archives: fondue

Exploring Zermatt

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Thursday, 18-July-2024, through Wednesday, 24-July, 2024


Zermatt was glorious and I loved it.

Simple and to the point. End blog post, we’re done here.



Not really, of course. I mean, there’s food to talk about and show pictures of, exploration of the town itself to describe… all that fun stuff!

We’ll start with the town – an absolutely gorgeous Swiss chalet, overrun with tourists and adventurers. I saw more hiking and mountaineering equipment here than I’ve seen in recent memory… and probably more than anywhere outside of an REI in Portland. I saw watches that cost more than a reasonably-priced used car, and saw the same exact souvenier shot glass priced anywhere from €26 to €85 depending on how elitist the shop was.

Seriously – I considered if there was some way I could buy low and return high, but in the end passed up on the opportunity in favor of more hiking.

The food was lovely, and absolutely excellent – I had one less than optimal sandwich at one point, but everything else was absolutely lovely:

  • Zermama Bistro – My first breakfast in Zermatt, and it was an absolutely lovely buffet.
  • Fuchs – It means “Fox”, you dirty-minded reader. Also, there were like 10 of these places throughout Zermatt. All of them were good bakeries.
  • Grizzley’s bar and bistro – your standard issue American bar and grill. Normal prices for Portland, but smaller portions… which wasn’t a bad thing, since the portion was still more than enough for me
  • Petit Royal – Meh… not a great breakfast, truth be told. Solidly acceptable fuel for my hike, but I wasn’t remotely interested in going back
  • Tufternalp Restaurant – this was halfway up a mountain on a hiking trail. Welcome to Switzerland; if you’re on a hike into the wilderness, there’s probably a small chateau nearby with coffee and cocoa.
  • Ze Seewjinu – Another spot halfway up the mountain (on the other side), in the middle of nowhere. Excellent late lunch, glorious coffee… what more could an adventurer want?
  • GramPi’s – A lovely Italian restaurant. Good spaghetti and meatballs, good wine… nothing standout, but it was decidedly acceptable after a long day of hiking
  • Zermatt Kitchen Brücke – Solid breakfast of eggs benedict and coffee… simple and solid fuel before my adventure of the day
  • Restaurant Pinte – Fondue! Fondue for one, which was surprisingly hard to find! Delicious fondue, excellent coffee, and a glorious warm rest stop on a cool and rainy day.
  • Swiss Chalet – my first exposure to “Rosti”, which is sort of halfway between a Latke and hashbrowns? It was interesting, with good steak and good wine.
  • Restaurant Z’Mutt – Another hiking day, and another restaurant on the side of a mountain. This one was part of the small “town”, made up of five buildings, of Zmutt… definitely a grand coffee stop on a long hike
  • Grill Le Cervin – The fanciest spot I went to in Zermatt, and ironically the cheapest for it’s quality… my full meal was probably €80, with steak and wine and complimentary starter and dessert. Price comparable to similar restaurants in the States, I’d say, but service being far above the norm
  • Edwards – a solid hotel breakfast with a solid latte and solid eggs benedict. Not great, but safe and tasty and filling
  • Ice Buffet – High up, at 9,600ft, was the Ice Buffet. I was woozy, out of it, and thankfully the staff realized that and helped me find something to eat and drink to get my feet back under me.

The fact that almost all the food was great was really appreciated, since Switzerland lived up to its reputation as an expensive country… I’d say it was probably the most expensive country I’ve visited so far, though time will tell what the actual per-day expenditure tallied out to be.

Interestingly, though, it was a sort of “expense by average” – normal breakfasts and dinners were much more expensive than other countries, but high-end meals were actually quite reasonable… about the same price as other European countries, and noticeably less than their United States counterparts.




Ohh… what else about Zermatt?

It was amazing. I adored being able to just walk out my door and start a hike. I adored the tiny little utility vehicles and mini-busses that were the only vehicles allowed in town (from what I could tell), and I appreciated how everyone biked everywhere. The grocery stores were quick and efficient, and there were amazing views literally everywhere I went.

If you have a chance, definitely come visit.

Backpacking up to the White River Glacier

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Friday and Saturday, 16-Feb-2024 and 17-Feb-2024


I really do stick to the spots I know, don’t I?

But why not, when the goal is just to get out of town and sleep on the glacier? I mean… the goal here isn’t to get crazy views (even though I like to!), nor is the goal to hike a ton of distance (though I do hike some extra miles when I can)… The goal is to get out of town, carve a spot into the snow, and appreciate the cold and solitude.

The white river glacier works well for that – I know it like the back of my hand, it’s not a long hike, and I can take my time on the drive out. I mean, I’ve never set alarms for days that I go up onto the white river glacier. I wake up slow, get brunch, then… take it easy. It’s nice.


This trip was no different from the others. I mean, I didn’t even get to the trailhead ’till 5:00 or so! And Sundown was 6:30!


But that’s fine – I know the path, I have headlamps, and…

Why was there a fire going near my campsite? Was there someone else in my spot?? For the first time in three years???

No, dear readers, thankfully I hadn’t been site-sniped. It was better… so much better. I’ve never seen any one else camping near my area, in the 3+ years I’ve been up that trail. Which is kind of strange, since I only found this specific spot because, when I went up in 2021, someone else had already carved it out from the hillside…

Anyways, I met a team of folks who were making fondue, and we shared fondue. It was delicious, and I very much plan on making fondue the next time I go backpacking. Also I plan on saying fondue as many fondue times as I fon-can. Do. Due.

In trade, I promised aerial pictures of their camp – I made sure they were okay with my flying my drone ahead of time, of course, and they were quite psyched for the opportunity, so… win-win, right? Heck yeah, right.


The rest of the trip was exactly as normal – quiet, relaxing, and exceptionally enjoyable. I adore the snow, the cold, and the quiet that I can’t ever seem to find in the summer. Something about the stillness of the air, maybe? Or where the world seems to be hibernating, and not expecting anything from us? I can’t say for certain, but I can say that I appreciate it.