Tag Archives: RedRock

Where has Ben been, the summer of 2014? – Climbing at Redrock with Dillon and Liz


This was back on a perfectly warm Saturday, late spring or early summer.

We’d been hanging out the night before, and the three of us (Dillon, Liz, and myself) realized that we all had the next day free, with basically nothing to do…

So we did what we should always do in this situation!  Met up early morning, got breakfast in Glouchester, and then did some climbing!  Even got some nicely bloody knees from it too!

First outdoor climbing of the year: Redrock in Gloucester


Sunday, 23-Mar-14


You’d think I would have learned by now, that when Daniel agrees to show up an hour earlier than he planned, that he’s actually going to arrive roughly half an hour late.

But in this case, it wasn’t at all a problem – see, the plan was to leave my house at 9:00 on Sunday morning, so that we could get Breakfast in Gloucester before climbing at Redrock.  But of the 12 people that I invited, only two replied… And one only replied to say she couldn’t come.  The other reply?  Saying that they couldn’t make it until 3:30 at the earliest… likely after we were going to be headed home.

So, Daniel and I got a slow start.  But it’s ok, because part of that slow start was… Breakfast!  I love breakfast, it’s basically the best part of the weekend for me.  We hit up Georges Coffee shop in Gloucester, the same one that we had hit when exploring Dogtown, and had an excellent-but-huge amount of pancakes and bacon and eggs.  The waitress even remembered us, and we chatted about trips to Europe, of all places.


Once we were fed though, we moved on toward the actual climbing.  Driving out, parking, and hiking in were exactly what one would expect them to be.  Yep.

The area though… the area was cold.  Wet.  Covered in snow.  A lot worse than we expected, to be honest, though all of the walls were some semblance of dry.  The problem was the the dry walls were at the far ends of the spectrum – either super easy, or super hard.  the 5.11b slab route was dry… but yeah.  That’s not happening.

Before unpacking and starting up, we did a quick bit of exploring too; nothing too much, but enough to give us an idea of some other climbing spots, as well as at least two new routes that we’ll definitely try when we come back.

So what did we hit?

  • Climb #1 – Trad route, a small hand-crack on the far right on the main wall.  My first trad lead of the season, so that was kind of nice.  It was pretty straight forward, but it’s always good to have a quick and easy climb to remind me that I do know what I’m doing.
  • Climb #2 – This was a combination of two routes, an easy layback flake, and the insane 5.11b slab.  We took the flake up about halfway, then traversed right to another crack system.  Daniel was able to get most of the traverse, but the cold took me down before I was able to finish it up myself.


The rest of the night was spent teaching Daniel how to drive a standard-transmission car (a bad decision… my poor transmission!) and getting dinner at John Harvard.  An excellent day!


Saturday, 05-Oct-13

Climbing at Redrock in Glouchester

A simple adventure for a relaxed Sunday – my friend Gaku and I went to Redrocks, a climbing spot a bit outside of Gloucester.

Daniel and I had been here once before, after I’d heard some rumors of it being awesome from the NUHOC climbers.  The guide showed a few pretty interesting sport/trad routes, and so we met in the parking lot, racked up, and headed onto the trail that wound beside the highway and into the woods.

When we found the climbs… dang!  The rock here was almost identical to the rock in Joshua Tree – a type of very rough Granite that shoes just love to stick to.  But unlike Joshua Tree, Redrocks has been polished by countless New England winters… leaving the rock very interesting, but a bit more challenging to find grip on.

The climbs:

Pink Floyd Crag

  • “Animals / Wish you were here” – 5.5 or 5.7? – We set up two small pitches to the far right of this wall – taking a few runs on some rather interesting layback-style vertical cracks.  Gaku and myself both worked a few different moves for a bit, just moving the anchors around.
  • “Unnamed Bolted Face” – 5.10b – This is my bane, and my challenge.  The problem is that I can’t even figure out what move needs to be made… The first few are fun and simple, though quite committing, but by the second bolt you’re basically just stuck in a blank face, with some small cracks far away… staring…

Main Crag

  • Zipper – 5.5 – this is the definition of a layback / crack climb.  Perfect and beautiful and fun, though a bit easy.  I’d love to lead it, but not convinced that gear would hold since the flake is so thin.
  • ??? – 5.7? – this was a perfect crack / dihedral climb that I had led while climbing with Daniel… but had taken a strange / inefficient route up.  This gave me a chance to try it again, which led to a very fun and clean climb.  Not sure why I didn’t do it this way in the first place…