Daily Archives: July 29, 2024

St. Stephen’s Cathedral – Domkirche St. Stephan

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Monday, 01-July-2024


After emerging from the endlessly ornamented underground crypts of the Hapsburgs, I felt like I needed a bit of opulence to make up for the sudden lack of decadence.

I set my sights on the Natural History Museum – the twin to the Art History museum, one that I expected to fully satiate my need for incredibly ornamented beauty. On the way, though, I found their equal – or even their better, if you’re interested in gothic architecture over baroque.

St Stephen’s Cathedral, a landmark of soaring gothic buttresses and spires.


I… uhh… I explored it. Went in, looked around, took some photos… I mean, it’s a cathedral, but it didn’t have an unexpected concert going on, so I didn’t really have much reason to stay too long. There were some beautiful paintings, of course, but… well, I wandered, explored, and moved on.



Now, to be clear, I could have explored much further. There were catacombs and tombs, from what I could gather, along with a bell tower that could be visited. All of those, though, required one to book a tour… which only ran at certain times of the day.

For one reason or another, I was feeling a bit antsy. I wanted to walk, and to move, and to do my own thing on my own timetable. I avoided the tours, and set my sights on my next stop – relegating the various tours and options to my list of things to see the next time I visit Vienna.

The Crypt of the Hapsburgs – Kapuzinergruft

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Monday, 01-July-2024



Have I mentioned that Vienna is slightly well ornamented, possibly to the point of being ostentacious, and well within the realm of opulence?

Well.

Turns out, the Hapsburgs are buried here, in a private crypt safeguarded by a private monastery. Turns out, new (joking) life goal – have my own order of monks.

As I was walking back from a lovely lunch, I noticed a sign for “The Crypt of the Hapsburgs” in English, along with the German version of “Kapuzinergruft”. I hate to say it, but I grew up hearing “Kaput” as a kind of joking way to say something’s broken… so while I logically know that it’s just the root of the name of the monastery…

Well, I definitely had to stop in and see what it was.

It was… it started normally enough, with a few small caskets that seemed fancy, but not overwhelmingly so. There was also a sign, mentioning a quote from one of the Emperors who was quoted along the lines of “everyone is equal in death”, which seemed a little inaccurate when I walked into the next room and saw a casket roughly the size of a mid-sized sedan, or a little bigger than a nominally-priced New York City apartment.



Still, it was interesting to walk through the crypt and see the caskets and how they varied over time. Those that were still actively venerated with flowers and offerings, and those that apparently hadn’t been visited except for dusting and tourists like myself.

It was a bit of a quick trip, for me, since none of the placards were in English… though I did stop at a few spots to do a translation to read a little bit more. Frankly, though, that was few and far between. In general, I simply wandered and appreciated the ornamentation and sculpture, along with the architecture of the varying rooms and the general “feel” of the area.

It was definitely interesting, and absolutely worthy of a quick stop-by.



Also, interestingly, the Hapsburg line has NOT ended – the most recently interred member was last year, in 2023, and there are quite a few currently living members:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_of_Habsburg