Monthly Archives: April 2016

11-Mar-2016: PDX Pulldown, my first Redpoint competition

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Friday, 11-March-2016

 

Holy crap there are so many people who want to rock climb in Portland.

Like… seriously.  We get to the climbing gym for their competition, the PDX pulldown, and there’s already a solid 100 people.  And they don’t stop showing up; at its peak, there must have been ~300 people at the gym.  Which is awesome, right up until the point that I’m trying to get onto some routes so I can actually… you know… compete in the competition.

Because I’ll be honest – people weren’t really being ideal climbers.  They were… well, one rule was the “one fall” limit.  You come down after a fall, so the next person can try.  Well… I heard the phrase “I just won’t count the points, I want to try it anyways” way too often.  There were also a few folks who had never tied knots it seems, and one or two people uncertain of which direction one is supposed to climb (Hint: it’s “up”).

All of that in mind – I had a good time.  My only real regret was that I ate their free pizza… that was not particularly delicious or good for the climbing feel.  But aside from that, I did well, climbed hard, and enjoyed myself.

 

The best part?  I reached my goal!  There were three divisions that I could place into: men’s recreational, men’s advanced, and men’s open.  Open was the top level, consisting of people climbing lead routes, and working the hardest.  The top three members of the open division would compete for first place in the competition… I knew I couldn’t get into that region, but my main goal was to place into the open category.

And in theory, it was simple.  I just had to lead a single route.  Just one completed lead would get me into my goal.  But funny story – they’re all tough.

In the end, I did two.  Well… I completed one, and got halfway up a second.  My completed was a 5.11c, one try, no falls.  My half-way was a 5.12b, one try again.  One fall though… since, you know, didn’t finish.

But I placed.  I got cleanly into the Open Category, out-scoring everyone in the Advanced, and a solid 50% of the folks in Open.  I did well.  I am proud of myself 🙂

Ohh, you want to know what I won?

I got a little coffee mug, as free swag from one of the merchant booths.  Funny story – if I had just done Advanced, and not tried to get into Open, I probably could have won.  But… you know… personal pride and goal setting and silly stuff like that.

26, 27 & 28-Feb-16: Camping with Ollie!

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26, 27 & 28-Feb-16: Camping with Ollie!

Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 26, 27 & 28 February, 2016

 

So we finally did it.

We packed up the Mustang, with tents and sleeping bags, and cookware and an Ollie, and drove down to Smith for a weekend of adventure and intrigue.

 

We got into Smith early evening on Friday, and headed basically straight into Skull Hollow to get camp set up and to hopefully get an early start on Saturday morning.  As per the usual, I’d brought the battle axe to chop up the firewood… but this time we held off for the first night, instead just relaxing and letting Ollie get used to the idea of being at a campground with us.

 

Saturday morning saw us heading to the Waterfall slab area – a smaller section, but one that’s nicely remote and generally untraveled… which was critical for us, since Ollie’s still getting used to being a crag dog and doesn’t really know how to stay calm while Sarah and I are climbing.  We’d already done all of the routes around here before, so it was a nice change to just relax and do some fun / easy climbing… while keeping a cautious eye on the demon puppy.

After finishing up at the slabs, we moved along to the Pleasure Palace area, so that I could have a rematch against the route that Daniel and I had done while he was out… a really fun 5.10b, with a solidly tough beginning crux that I just loved.  The hike into the Palace was, as usual, long and horrible and tiring, but the resulting view was amazing.

The climb was just as fun as I’d remembered it – a quite short, quite pumpy section followed by a long and boring section of basically walking up to the anchor.

Climbs on Saturday:

Waterfall Slab

Taylor Brook – 5.7, sport

Amelia Dearheart – 5.7, Sport

9999 – 5.6, Sport

unknown climb – 5.9/5.10, Sport – This one was the far right of the waterfall slab, and it was definitely interesting.  I led it twice; once through pure fear and skittering, and once much cleaner and quicker.  The trick, I learned, was to stay low and use a tiny little side-pull to tear above the crux.

Pleasure Palace:

Matthew 7:24 – 5.10b, sport Clean Lead!

 

Saturday night was relaxing – fire, dinner over a stove, and relaxing.  Ollie did really well too; she pulled at the leash a lot, but never actually snuck away from us.  She was also, more importantly, very good around the fire and around camp.  She only tied me up with the leash once or twice, and didn’t even pull the tent down once!  Though I will admit that getting to sleep was a bit tough, since SOMEONE kept trying to cuddle into both Sarah and I…

Best / cutest part?  Ollie running around in Sarah’s sweater.  We put it around her to keep her warm, so it became the only part of her that we could actually see – black dog in a dark night, you understand.  So it was basically a small reflective sweater bounding around the campsite, with two little glowing eyes poking out… Creepy and cute!

Sunday was another chill day – we didn’t bother trying to get more climbing in, and instead just took ourselves out to a fun breakfast, and then put the top down and cruised back to Hood River with Ollie curled up on Sarah’s lap 🙂

 

20-Feb-2016, A fancy dinner in Hood River

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Saturday night, 20-Feb-2016

 

I’d spend the day puttering around Portland.  Stopping in at some restaurants, some shops, and generally working to get some random stuff done and some errands dealt with.  Most of those errands revolved around making a fancy-ass dinner.

Why?  Why not?  That’s basically all I can say, since I didn’t have a specific reason for wanting to go full ham on dinner.  But really – what sort of reason do you need?

Since real fun of the dinner was prepping and eating, I’ll give a quick list-off of the menu and plan…

 

Appetizer: Stirling Caviar, served on small biscuits with two flavors of Vodka (a Polish wheatgrass, and a Portland dry)

Entree: Filet Mignon in a heavy cream sauce, per a recipe I’ve already posted.  This is actually the second time I’ve tried to cook this in Oregon… but the first time kind of ended poorly, when I misjudged how hot the pan had gotten and thus flambe’d a bit hotter than I should have…

On the side, we had zucchini and sauteed kale.  Though really, after the Caviar and steak it was just secondary 😛

Dessert: We didn’t really have room for dessert, but I think there was ice cream or something?  Or wait!  No!  I had picked up a bottle of Scotch – 12 year Macallan single malt, to be precise.  Fancy dinner calls for a fancy digestif 🙂

(Ed note: See https://talesfromthehutt.com/2015/02/28/cooking-a-new-recipe-flambe-included/)