Climbing at the Fells in April




A mid-week trip to the Middlesex Fells with Marla, after work.


  • Work was annoying, but somehow I was able to sneak out and bike home a bit early… and since Marla had already gotten home by that point, we decide to head out for a bit of rock climbing.
  • We leave the house at 5:45, and are parked at the Fells parking area by 6:30. We didn’t even get lost once!
  • After hiking in a bit, we have some trouble finding any rock that’s worth setting up… and definitely nothing that I’d want to lead. Everything is either too easy, too wet, or just silly.
  • Finally, after wandering deeper into the woods, we find one climb that looks viable! No cracks to place gear into, but other than that it appears to be a clean slab climb, with a scar of quartz running through the middle, up to the top.
    • An anchor is set up top, and a rope is dropped down to the base
    • Unfortunately, there isn’t really much to build an anchor off of, and it takes a while… the rope is first tied into roughly 10min after official sunset at 7:20.
    • We climb it. Not a bad route! It’s fairly easy, but definitely interesting slab climbing. If you use the Dyke of quartz it’s much easier, but sticking to the slabs yielded a neat puzzle.
    • Route name: Ben’s folly
    • Rough route grade: 5.4 with quartz, 5.6 without
  • We pull the anchor, coil the rope, and pack up my gear as the sun finishes setting… and we’re back at the car before it’s really dark enough to need headlamps.

Leave a Reply