Tag Archives: Sport Climbing

Aug6

Klimbing at Klinger – Fourth of July!

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Tuesday, 04-July-2023


I’m actually getting a fair number of rock climbing trips in this summer!

Not as many as I’d like, mind you, but… Frankly, I’m okay with it. I’m happy with the backpacking, and the climbing that I’ve gotten to do has been exceptionally fun and solid. No one will hear me complaining, and the 4th of July was no exception.

I was worried it’d be slammed – I mean, everyone has the 4th off, right? But this is Oregon, and you never can tell… But it was beautiful out, and warm, and quite dry… Ahh, who knows.

Bri and I took stock of options and picked a crag that we figured would be the least likely to be inundated with climbers – a spot on the Eastern side of Mt. Hood, far from Portland, called Klinger. We got going early, met up at her place, and even got ourselves breakfast sandwiches on the way. We drove, found the last spot at the parking area, and started in.

“The last spot at the parking area” doesn’t bode well for our heroes, but keep in mind – this was a parking spot that’s shared between climbing and a nearby trailhead… and it only held eight cars or so.

In the end? No one else nearby. We ran into maybe 8 people the whole time, none of which were climbing near us, so… I’ll consider it a win.



What did we climb, you may ask?
Hanging Chad – 5.7, Sport, Lead!
Hot Pockets – 5.8+, Sport, Lead!
Blue Grouse – 5.9, Sport, Lead!
Felsschlupfer (Rock Wren) – 5.10d, Top Rope
GSR (Good Sport Route) – 5.7, Sport, Lead!

Yeah – I felt strong. Lots of leading, though I was sad that we didn’t get any trad routes in… but I felt strong – even doing that 10d was pretty solid!


By the time we left the crag, we were the last car in the lot. We headed back, snapped some pictures of a cool little shrine we’d found in the woods, got a photo or two of Mt. Hood looking beautiful, and then I made a glorious dinner.

Not a bad 4th, huh?

Jun12

A spring day on the rock at Ozone

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**Note this was posted on 06-July-2023, but is backdated to 12-June, so that it fits in with the correct timeline. Apologies!!**


29-Apr-2023


Holy crap it was hot.

Like… April, man… why was it hitting 90s? Global Warming my rear… this is Global boiling. Global blow-torching. Global “It’s getting too hot!”-ing!

Anyways Jess and I went climbing!

It’s been a while since I’ve been to Ozone, so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect… but thankfully, Mountain Project was there to help guide us, and my memory wasn’t quite as bad as I was worried it might be. Minimal exploration was needed, and lots of great climbing was had!

I didn’t end up taking any pictures, since photography while climbing is a bit hard… I’m either climbing, or belaying, and neither option lends itself to free hands. If you’ll forgive the lack of photography, though, I do have a list of climbing that we rocked!

Simple and easy ones, I didn’t push too hard… though that final 10a was definitely an appreciated challenge! The rest were simple – stretching my muscles, letting Jess break back into outdoor climbing… it was a good day, in no uncertain terms.



Routes:
– Wellwisher, 5.6, Trad, Lead!
– The Beared Lady, 5.6, Mixed, Lead!
– Pippin, 5.6, Trad, Lead!
– Merry, 5.7, Sport, Lead!
– Prancing Pony, 5.7, Trad, Lead!
– Bag Ends, 5.7, Trad, Lead!
– Mirkwood, 5.10a, Top Rope!

May8

BCEP – Climbing at Windy Slab

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Last year, I took the BCEP class with the Mazamas – Basic Climbing Education Program. It was interesting; a great chance to review my well-trained skills, practice some that I hadn’t used in ages, and get to meet some new climbing and outdoors people. It was fun, and ticked all the boxes that I had hoped that it would.

My faith in the outdoors community reinvigorated, I quickly and happily volunteered to help teach BCEP this year. I was expecting to assist with the same group that I’d taken the class with the previous year, since leaders tend to continue teaching year over year, so I was a bit surprised when I was placed with a different group… but it turns out, this new group was just starting out – the first year the leader had led a BCEP team on their own.

The chance to help out with a new group, and to help build a similar culture of excitement and optimism for the outdoors? All while getting to show people the unbridled joy of rock climbing? Of seeing new views off the side of a mountain?

Well. Sign me right the heck up.


Saturday, 08-Apr-2023


After we finished up Hamilton Mountain, there was one more adventure of the day planned. Nothing big, and nothing too far… but an adventure I was exceptionally excited for nonetheless.

Why, you may ask?

It was my first chance to explore a new crag in years!



Looking back on it, I think I’d heard of Windy Slab before. Probably briefly in passing, since it’s anything but a popular large crag, but still – When the group leader recommended it, I jumped at the opportunity to help set up routes for the group.

We arrived, did a bit of scouting, and moved the teams up to the rock. I set a route while the leader set the one next to me, and we started walking the students through the whole process of climbing in the great outdoors.

Before climbing, we talked through leading – how it varies from top roping, what considerations to take in, etc…

While climbing, the assistants pointed out the details of what we were doing.

At the end, I got to climb one of the harder routes available to retrieve the anchor… but unfortunately the students didn’t get a chance to see, since I didn’t climb slowly enough. Yep. Not even remotely humble-brag right there.


Hey, it was a 10a, I’m okay being a bit proud that I crushed it record time.



What routes did Ben climb?

Night Music – 5.6, Sport

Dark Apron – 5.10a, Top Rope