Tag Archives: OH8 rock climbing

A weekend relaxing, climbing, adventuring, and staying in Hood River.

Standard
A weekend relaxing, climbing, adventuring, and staying in Hood River.

The original plan for this weekend was for Sarah to drive out to Hood River early on Friday (as early as work would allow, at least) and then for us to drive down to Smith Rock for a weekend of burly sport climbing. However, life doesn’t always end up exactly as planned…

 

Friday, 29-August-2015

The adventures started when Sarah arrived in Hood River a bit later than planned – poor Jasper had gotten an ear infection, and so we can’t roll with Smith this weekend. Instead, we’ll adventure around Hood River, and be a bit domestic.

Due to the late start to the evening, and the fact that we were a bit tired, dinner was a simple order for takeout from China Gorge, the local higher end Chinese place. Even then, we barely got the order in before last call… but they gave us free soup, since we got there right before close. So it wasn’t all bad. Not bad at all.

The we ate, relaxed, watched some Star Trek on the couch, and relaxed in each others arms until we passed out.

 

Saturday, 30-August-2015

The morning started slowly, as most at-home mornings do… though it was a hugely amazing change of pace for Sarah, since most mornings would see her awake noticeably before dawn.

Breakfast is a quick few bowls of reheated Chinese, since we’re aiming to get going as early as possible, to get some solid climbing in before Hood River starts getting rained on. Jasper, of course, stared holes in the food while we ate. Or… started holes near the food, since he doesn’t ever actually look directly at whatever he wants. He sort of stared off into the distance, assuming that we’d know what it was that he wanted.

Then, we rush out the door! Or… slowly pack up, watch another episode of Star Trek, walk Jasper before the car ride, and then laze around a bit more. In all honesty, we didn’t get out of the house for a few hours… late enough that we had to stop in for a quick slice of pizza to cure our hunger before we started the real drive to OH8.

Once there, climbing!

Wind Dummy – 5.9, sport – lead by Ben x2, seconded by Sarah x2

Tide water – ~5.9, Sport – lead by Sarah

Sasquatch – 5.11c, top rope – climbed by both

Sarah’s Route – 5.10?, top rope – Variant to Sasquatch, sliding to the left up a more pleasant crack system to dodge the bulge. Named & claimed by Ben and Sarah.

 

 

The climbing was excellent, but the real adventure part of it was getting Jasper up and down the short trail to the cliff… The shelter had told Sarah that he was a great hiking dog, but as most people can tell you – Shelters lie through their teeth. The poor guy could barely deal with the steep path, and once it turned into rocks he was completely out of his element.

So instead, I carried him up and down the path.

Sarah brought blankets from the car, and we built a little nest for him to relax in while we climbed. He didn’t seem to mind it, but he did keep staring off toward the car, vaguely hoping that we’d bring him back home to his fancy temperpedic doggy bed…

We did meet two other climbers, but overall we had the place to ourselves. Which led to some awkwardness when they walked up on us curled up on the blanket with Jasper. Once the awkwardness had passed, we watched them lead Sasquatch like bosses.

Getting Jasper up the trail hadn’t been a problem, but getting him back down turned out to be a little more difficult… which is totally the excuse that I’m going with. Because on the way down (while carrying my climbing gear, after getting Jasper settled in the car) I took a nice tumble, where my leg got caught in a small crack in the rock. Hit the side of my leg something rough, but thankfully I didn’t pass out or break anything, so good times are had by all. The only long-term evidence is some very impressive cuts and bruising along the calf… not so bad.

Then we’re back to town, grabbing food at the grocery and buying way too much stuff. Don’t shop while hungry, kids… you buy lots of random stuff. When we did finally get home, we had the ingredients to make a full cheese plate, make steaks, and even have some random stuff for dessert.

Of course, trying to show off to Sarah caused me to mess up the steaks, nearly burn the house down, and set off the fire alarm… but she was a sport about it, and I still got a “thank you, they were awesome!” along with a thank-you kiss. So… again, all good, I guess.

Then we curled up on the couch, watched some more Star Trek, and crashed for the night.

 

 

Sunday, 31-August-2015

Sunday is rest day! And rest days are made extra-amazing by having amazing breakfasts… English muffins, avocados, bacon, eggs, coffee… ohh my lord I literally can’t remember the last time I had a breakfast that good.

The danger was that such a good breakfast sat heavy, and neither of us felt particularly motivated to move… especially since rain was falling outside the window. We held out some hope that Horsethief would be dry, but a recon mission by my coworker who lives 10min from the cliffs confirmed that the rock was wet, and more wetness was falling on it as we spoke.

So, we went for a hike instead! Thanks to Sarah’s expert local knowledge, we knew where to go: a short hike called Eagle Creek. Eagle Creek is a real nice walk, along some steep cliffsides, with amazing waterfalls as payoff points along the way.

We took is easy, since I’d hurt my ankle the day before… actually, I should say that I took it easy, and Sarah went full-bore on it – she showed off by carrying a full mountaineering pack up the hike with us as a training weight. Which actually ended well, since it let me keep pace with her without too much difficulty.

Mountaineers. Guh.

No matter though – The hiking was beautiful, and long conversations were had. Sarah did take a kinda rough fall near the beginning, but she caught herself in what was basically a solid combat roll – you know, instead of just faceplanting on the dirt like I would have done.

It did start raining about halfway through, but since we’d expected that it wasn’t really an issue – we pulled out rain gear, and kept right on trucking. Turns out – Sarah and I bought basically the same jacket… interdependently, on different coasts. A little ridiculous.

So the rain fell. We walked. The mist rolled in, and my awesome hat kept me dry. The mist and fog rolled over the nearby mountains, and it was freaking gorgeous… the Pacific Northwest is seriously a beautiful place, and I was completely thankful that life had brought me out.

The path continued, we took pictures at waterfalls, and the rain picked up.

After a while, we swung back around and headed for the car – when we got there, a small break in the rain gave us a change to peel off rain layers, and huddle down into the car in our dry clothes; no wet seats of under-gear.

We bought some more food at the grocery, headed home, and cooked up a nice dinner. This time we skipped Star Trek, and went for Disney’s Atlantis instead. We sipped drinks, pet Jasper, and fell asleep after an amazing day.

 

 

Monday, 31-August-2015

Sarah’s work had given them all Monday off, so we got the bonus of hanging out in the morning. Thanks to my work starting so much later than hers, we got up much earlier than I normally do… which meant breakfast! So we ate, and then drove out to The Dalles to drop the Mustang off to get the front end fixed up. Sarah dropped me off at work, and I started into the work week with a smile.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

A nice bonus – Since Sarah was in Hood River anyways, we took the chance to have lunch on the beach. And aside from a quick moment where Jasper nearly ate another dog (it was off-leash, and the owner ignored our requests to keep her little yorkie away from the demented old man) it was amazing – Pizza and cookies and coffee and naps.

But all things end, and soon enough I was back in the office, and Sarah was driving back to Portland.

But the notes that she left all over the house kept me company once I go home. So there’s that, which is nice.

A glimpse into my life in Hood River: A week in August.

Standard
Week of 23-Aug through 29-Aug
I love living in Oregon so far.  Granted, we’re still in the sunny and beautiful months, so that’s definitely a factor that I should take into account: I don’t like long dark days, and I hear that we’re going to have a lot of those soon.
But thankfully, my current adventures are filling up my “get outside and rock out” tank, and I’ve got a whole new network of mountaineers to call on once it gets rainy, and my thoughts drift toward muddy hikes and bagging peaks.
So what have I been up to?  Well – let me give you a quick summary of an enjoyable week that I just had.
Monday, 24-August-2015
Interesting fact, the week officially starts on Monday, per ISO standard 8601.  I did not know that until I looked it up for this post.  I really thought it was Sunday.
I started the week, officially, driving from Portland to Hood River.  It’s an early morning drive; a side effect of Sarah having to wake up at 4:30 for her current project.  It’s nice though, because I’ve been regularly seeing something that I previously thought was only a myth: The sunrise.
And this sunrise is over Mt. Hood, through the smoke of the forest fires that’re burning throughout Oregon and Washington.  So the sunrises have been particularly pleasant recently.
Another advantage of being awake early: breakfast.  Stopping in for a good breakfast is an excellent start to the week, especially since it’s definitely a treat for me to be able to have a solid pre-work breakfast.
After work, Monday was a quiet day – my rest day for the week.  Cleaning the house, reorganizing my gear from the previous weekend, doing Laundry and making a big huge dinner so I’d have leftovers for the week.
Tuesday, 25-August-2015
The Columbia River Gorge is huge – 75 miles long, with an average height between 1500 and 3000ft.  There are 75 major waterfalls, and countless rock faces.  I have two books that show climbs in the area, and it will be years before I’ve explored all of them.
This week, Tuesday is a climbing day.  My coworker has been pestering me to go climbing with him, but I’d been dodging him in favor of trip prep and random other events going on the previous few weeks.  This week was finally open, so we left work a little early and headed to a crag that I’d never been to before, but that he’d climbed at once with some other coworkers of ours.
OH8 – Old Highway 8 – crag is a lot like… I don’t know, really.  It’s like itself – it’s got pretty solid Basalt rock, with tons of small fractures throughout.  Though looks can be deceiving, and the climbs had far fewer crimps and nubbins than I expected, going into it.
If anything, it’s like Quincy Quarries back east – semi-tall, good climbing.  Except that everything is Sport (eat your heart out, Daniel), and they bolts are well maintained, and there’re no heroin needles or huge graffiti tags.
So not like Quincy Quarries at all, I guess.  The rock is, though.
Climb #1 – Tidewater, 5.9 Sport, lead by Ben.  A fun route, though kind of run out.  Right at the crux.  With a ledge fall potential.  So… a little bit sketchy.  But not super tough for a 5.9… I’ve heard it called a 5.8, which fits more with what I’d rate it at.
Climb #2 – Sasquatch, 5.11b Sport, set up as a toprope from the top of Tidewater.  It’s a challenge… but a fun challenge.  I work up it twice; the second time I come close to doing it clean, except for the crux section.
Wednesday, 26-August-2015
Another quick note about Oregon – everyone is athletic here.  Like… my oldest coworker still goes free diving and spear fishing on a regular basis.  Portland has the highest population of interesting / adventurous people that I’ve seen so far, so it’s no surprise that there’s more than a few climbing gyms in the area…
Wednesday I run into Portland again – It’s a bit of a haul, but the only climbing gyms in the area are here, and the chance to climb and have dinner with Sarah definitely makes it worth the ride in.
And honestly, my road trip reminded me just how relaxing and calming driving is for me.  So the drive is a good chance to decompress halfway through the week.  Call some family & friends, maybe.  It’s nice.
So this week, we hit Planet Granite – versus the usual Portland Rock Gym.  In all honesty, I find that I like PG better than PRG; the routes are more toward my style of powerful moves, and the gym is a bit bigger, and so less claustrophobic.  PRG is still excellent, with much more delicate & technical climbing, so I’m looking forward to alternating between the two.
Sarah and I take our lead test, and then get on the wall for some adventure…
5.9, sport lead – this is where we take our test.  Fun.
5.10a, sport lead – a solid jug haul, with some good overhangs and committing moves.  Definitely my style.
5.12a, sport lead – Why did I get on a 5.12a, you may ask?  Because I’m trying to show off to Sarah, is what I’ll answer.  Also, I was curious… and it turns out that PG has very soft ratings… I nearly finished this route with only a single fall.  I wasn’t able to move past the crux though, but it’s a project that I’ll be working on.
5.11b, top rope – Again, proof that their ratings are soft… yet very fun.  I did this route twice in a row – only falling once during the second run.
From the gym, we headed back and made dinner – an amazing charcuterie plate and a bottle of wine.  Because Portland is a classy city, and we’re classy people.
Recipe: charcuterie plate
2 oz prosciutto smoked ham
1 Fuji apple, sliced thin
1/3 of a thick baguette, cut into medium chunks
1 pot of home-made fig jam (or bought, if Sarah isn’t around)
1/2 summer sausage, sliced
8oz Brie, thick cut and slightly warmed so it’s spreadable
8oz blueberries, in a small bowl
All served on a large cutting board, and artfully arranged with a selection of rock climbing gear (see picture)
Paired with Cabernet Sauvignon.  Because the bottle was interesting looking.
Thursday, 27-August-2015
Thursdays are my favorite day of the week.  You’re close to the end, but there’s still enough time to get everything done before the weekend.  And that ties in with both work and pleasure: At work, everyone’s relaxed because we’ve still got Friday to get those projects finished up.  At home, all I ever really have to do is some basic packing and prep work for the weekend.  So, by this rule, Thursdays have become my gym/gaming night.
Thanks to the fact that I stayed in Portland Wednesday night, I find myself in Hood River (awake) much earlier than normal – I’d love to say that I get into work super early and beast-mode the day, but… that just wouldn’t be even remotely true.
Instead, I head home and make myself breakfast.  I’ve done breakfast out on some of the occasions that I’ve driven down the gorge early in the morning, but it’s not really as excellent as I’d like… half the fun of a huge breakfast is knowing that you don’t have to go to work afterward.
So instead of eating out, I save a few bucks and stick with my usual smoothie.  I grab a quick shower, a less quick nap, and then head into work a little bit earlier than normal, as opposed to super-early.  It’s still pretty good though, and the day goes by quickly.  Especially since I’d spent some of the early morning making lunches, and so I had an excellent Brie & prosciutto & apple sandwich to eat.
Then after work, I bike over to the gym.  Very exciting.  I pick up some stuff.  Put it back down.  Pull some things, push some others.  You know, the usual stuff that a dude would do at the gym.  Flex.  Growl.  etc…
Leaving the gym isn’t particularly pleasant though, since it’s not actually the end of my workout… I still have to bike myself home.  Which isn’t generally particularly pleasant, at least after doing squats for half an hour.  But home means dinner, and dinner means happiness, so I push through and have myself a plate of delicious food ready before too long.
Then some gaming, then soaking in the tub full of salt water (Epson salt is amazing, and I’ll be forever thankful to my old roommate Lizzie for introducing it to me), then some more gaming, then a bit of packing for the weekend.  A simple and pleasant Thursday.
Friday, 28-August-2015
Friday’s are not my favorite day at work – but they’re almost always the best day of the week as soon as I leave the office.  That’s because, especially out here in Oregon, I get to go on some amazing adventure for the weekend. 
This weekend was originally going to be a pure climbing weekend – Saturday and Sunday at Smith Rock, trying to get a semi-insane number of climbs done in a rather short period of time.  Sarah was going to meet me in Hood River, and then her friend Josha would meet us at Smith.  Then on Saturday we’d start on a five-pitch sport route, then get two single-pitch routes done, then finish off on a three-pitch trad route.  Then I’d drop Sarah off for a mountaineering trip on Sunday, and Josha and I would spend Sunday climbing some lighter routes.
However, plans change… pretty regularly, in fact.
The forecast was for rain, so Sarah’s mountaineering trip was canceled.  Not a bad thing, since it meant we’d have more time to climb.
But then the back-breaker – Jasper (Sarah’s arthritic, geriatrically lovable dog) got sick.  Sick enough that he couldn’t be left home alone.  Sick enough that he had to go to the vet that evening, to make sure he was okay.
So instead of leaving the house early to drive down to Smith, I hit the gym on the way home.  Then, Sarah and Jasper drove out, we ordered some Chinese for dinner, and settled in to have a low-key rest weekend.  A nice change of pace, since I haven’t had a real rest weekend in over a month…