Logically, I know the horrors that the Soviet Union’s occupation of countries brought. I’ve read about it, I logically know the numbers. But I didn’t grow up with those numbers… for very good reasons, the Holocaust stands tallest in my mind due to the trauma it inflicted on my family. I was, simply put, raised in its shadow.
Standing in Estonia, in front of a memorial park dedicated to those deported by the USSR for use as slave labor and those simply executed, I’m reminded that World War Two was horrifying, and cast countless other shadows as well.
I didn’t realized that this was a memorial to those killed by the “Red Terror” of the USSR, at first. I saw the obelisk from the Reid Promenade, thought it looked interesting, and walked over. I mean, that’s what I’ve been doing this whole trip, and it’s served me pretty well hasn’t it?
Well, it continued serving me well, even if the subject matter was a bit tough.
The memorial was absolutely gorgeous – expansive, thoughtful, and… good. It was just a really great memorial, and I won’t try to describe it any further than that. Instead I’ll step back, and let the photos paint a picture for you.
What I can describe was the quiet of the park, the solemnity, and the sound of birds and wind in the trees… with the faint and distant sound of a lawnmower going off near the other side of the park, keeping the large fields of grass and stands of trees tamed.
I was feeling a bit stiff legged, and after fortifying myself with some food I headed off on a walk around the harbor promenade at the suggestion of one of the baristas that had helped with that initial fortification. It was nearby, had a neat view of the harbor, and felt like the right spot to just take the chance for a simple stretch of the legs.
I did get the chance to stretch my legs, but I also got so much more.
I got…
Placards.
That’s right, dear readers – Estonia provided me with my one true love from this trip. Information on, and insights into, the world of the Reid Promenade… and a bit of oceangoing history to boot. In both Estonian and English, no less!
I walked, read, and learned.
I enjoyed the sun on my skin and the pavement under my shoes – I found a beach, and traded pavement and shoes for sand and toes. I wandered, lingered, and enjoyed myself.
I came upon a statue, appreciated it, and moved on.
It was a good stretch, and a great introduction to the Baltics!
Prior to planning this trip, I maybe could have pointed out Estonia on a map. Maybe. I knew it was a former Soviet-bloc state, along with Latvia and Lithuania and lots of “-istan” countries, but I couldn’t have told you which part of Europe (or Asia?) it was in.
I feel bad about that… but at the same time I freely accept that I am, in fact, an American. With all the horrors and glories that accompany that fact.
Once I started planning, and realized exactly where Estonia is, I got super excited to visit, though! (See the map below):
Why was I so excited?
I mean, how could I not be?!? The Baltic states were new to me, for one, which is always an exciting prospect for adventure and exploration. More concretely, though, my quick research showed just what sort of area my education had overlooked – Some of the highest quality of life in the world, astounding internet and technology distribution through society, and exceptionally high happiness scores throughout. Couple that with extremely low cost of living, low travel expense in general…
Now, I’m not saying they’re Utopias, of course, but… well, when I started looking at them so long ago, they seemed damn close to the best we’ve got in today’s society.
I was beside myself to see them for myself!
My first views of Estonia came from the ferry – and, frankly, I don’t have much to say about them. They were views of a harbor, woo. Nothing special here.
As soon as I disembarked and started walking to my (very close by) hotel, though, I started seeing art and beauty. Neat installations, informational placards (my loves!), and interesting little things. Constructions, and lots of it, were speckled in between… From what I could tell, Tallinn is growing. Though, to be fair, none of these things really stood apart from the Nordic countries that I’ve been visiting so far… which in and of itself says something. When people think of the Nordics, they think of wealth and beauty – I’m learning that the Baltics are no different.
Over the next few days I wandered around Tallinn extensively – lots of walking, some scootering, but enjoyment throughout. It was cooler than the Nordics had been, thanks to a shift in weather, which made walking and wandering a bit easier… but at the same time, Tallinn felt smaller than the other cities, except Nuuk and maybe Reykjavik. It was very walkable, no doubt, with tons of neat things to look at along the way.
100% would recommend, and will likely come back someday!
Before I leave this post to dive into some of the specific adventures, we’ll follow tradition: and talk about Food!
Gallery Cafe – The first spot that I found in Estonia, and honestly simply one of the best. Great coffee, great food, can’t complain.
Kalevi Jahtklubi – Yacht Club. Yep – my first evening in Estonia I accidentally went to a Yacht Club for dinner… I walked in through a side door by accident, confused a patron for the host, and I’m pretty sure the only reason they seated me (a non-member) was because everyone was just really confused. Great food, though. Like… really good.
Restoran Trofe – Excellent food, in a cool wine cellar. Can’t complain in any way, shape, or form. I had Champagne!
Texas Cantina – I’m not proud of this, but I enjoyed it. I was wandering, wanted some lunch, and my original plan was closed. So you know what? I found out how well Estonia does Texas BBQ. They do a passable job, with exceptionally tender ribs, but the sauce had some unexpected flavors in there… not bad, but also not the standard BBQ I’m used to.
R14 – Now this. This was the fancy. R14 is probably the fanciest restaurant I’ve been to on this trip, to date, and they threw down. In short, R14 was previously Michelin starred, and they lived up to the hype. Both of the flavors and tastes (I had meatballs, sea bass, and gelato… with a gin & tonic and a glass of ice wine) but also in presentation and cost. Seriously, the whole meal was like $75.
5 Senses – Ehh, it was okay. Cool place, and I was looking forward to trying Estonia’s take on fried chicken and waffles. Estonia’s take on chicken and waffles was okay, I guess, but I wouldn’t recommend it over any other restaurant.
Taqueria – Supposedly the best tacos in Tallinn… I’d say they’re solidly okay tacos in comparison to Portland or Wilsonville. But then again, Portland and Wilsonville have the best tacos I’ve ever had…
