Tag Archives: crampons

A glacial ascent in the heat of summer – Middle Sister!

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Friday through Sunday, 12-Aug-2022 through 14-Aug-2022

Vital Statistics:
Day 1 = 6 miles, ~2,000ft elevation from Obsidian Trailhead to Arrowhead Lake campsite. ~5 hours total.
Day 2 = 6 miles round trip, ~3,100ft elevation to Middle Sister Summit via the Renfrew Glacier. ~11hrs total.
Day 3 = 7 miles, ~2,000ft elevation loss, via Obsidian falls. ~4 hours total.

Talking with the rest of my team, I realized something interesting. This trip is pretty close to the 16th anniversary of my first backpacking trip! Not to the day, I don’t think… but the Perseid meteor shower is this weekend, and that was the starter for my first backpacking trip, so…

Hey! Happy 16th anniversary of backpacking to me!

Not only that, but Middle Sister is the tallest glaciated peak that I’ve summitted! Standing proud at just over 10,000ft above sea level, it beats my previous summit of The Matterhorn (no, not the one in Europe, the smaller one in Oregon…) which stands at 9,845ft.

An anniversary and a personal record, all in one weekend… not so bad, right?


There’s another first to add to the list too – My first official Mazama’s climb! Since BCEP, I haven’t had occasion to do a full and official climb with the group who I spent so many weekends hiking alongside. I’d signed up for the Mt. Hood climb, of course, as is tradition for graduating BCEP students… but unfortunately that trip fell through due to a series of increasingly unlikely and exceptionally ridiculous issues.


I got an email a week or two prior from the BCEP group I was a part of. There were a few extra spots on a Middle Sister ascent team, and applications were open if any of us were interested. I’d already made plans for that weekend to go backpacking in the North Cascades with a friend of mine, but since those plans were pretty tentative at best (and, let’s be candid here, I gave them a 50% chance of falling through) I pivoted toward Middle Sister pretty quickly.

Plans were crystalized, times confirmed, and gear packed. An earlier-than-normal morning was followed by a stressful drive, where I was convinced that I was going to be a full 30min late to meet the team… until I realized that the longer-than-expected ETA was because my GPS was planning on having me take 15mph forest service roads to the trailhead… instead of the 60mph highway that leads right to it. I arrived almost exactly on time, in the end, though I’m pretty sure I overdosed on stress hormones before I realized that tomfoolery.

One there, with the whole group assembled, we held a solid team meeting at the trailhead. Went over plans, routes, gear, and all the fun things that a new team of adventurers cover with each other. Then, we shouldered our packs and headed in.


The hiking was, truthfully, a bit rough for me. I’d like to think that I’m in shape, and I know that in comparison to the majority of the population I am, but compared to the team I was with… I wasn’t the strongest member. We had seasoned mountaineers, a firefighter, and exceptionally strong hikers. Our route wasn’t particularly tough (see the above vital statistics) but I was definitely lagging behind by the time we started into our final push to the lake-side campsite.

Thankfully, our campsite was singularly gorgeous, and we’d arrived with easily enough time to spare for a quick nap, some good relaxation, and even some crevasse rescue practice… not that we expected any major crevasses on the glacier, but they’re one of those things that you always plan around… the penalty for failure being as simple as it is catastrophic.

We rested, we ate, we hydrated, and we watched a perfect sunset drop below the horizon before heading to bed, with dreams of an early morning start in the forefront of our thoughts.




The following day, on the push for the summit, I was feeling the elevation. Or the gain, or… I don’t know, but it was definitely a challenging. The morning started beautifully cold, and I embraced the change of pace from the boiling heat of Wilsonville with gusto. My jacket stayed in the pack, and my tee-shirt let me appreciate the full brunt of the alpine morning.

As we steadily ascended, the sun lit up and we took some time to stop for photos of the sunrise illuminating the line of Cascade Volcanoes stretching off into the Northern distance. We continued on, though we did take fairly regular breaks… to my extreme appreciation. Route-finding wasn’t particularly easy, since the glacier has receded quite a bit in recent years, but soon enough we found the foot of the Renfrew Glacier and headed up.

I dragged.

It was tough going for Ben, I freely admit. I was tired, my pack felt heavy, and the terrain was steep.

I persisted though, and with some help from the rest of the team we all made it up, and I was able to summit my newest glaciated peak!




The rest of the day was better than the ascent. The descent went smoothly, with my knees thankfully playing well with the braces and glacier and not even hurting that much. The glacial descent itself was lovely – a bit challenging in spots where the snowfield got steep, but we had rope teams and crampons and axes, so even in the two instances where I lost footing I was able to very quickly self-arrest and stop my slide within a foot or three.

The return to Arrowhead Lake was glorious – we quickly dropped our packs, and our outside clothes, and jumped into the bracing lake. It was freezing at first, but actually quite warm once we became acclimatized to it… the lake was maybe 4ft deep at its deepest, and fairly small, so the sun warmed it up nicely throughout the day. It wasn’t like a hot-tub, by any means, but… more like a mild cryotherapy? Regardless of the exact temperature, the lake was hugely appreciated and undoubtedly contributed to a speedy recovery for my poor tired legs.

Dinner and sunset were lovely, as expected, and sleep claimed me quickly and deeply; a very well earned rest.




The following morning saw us packing up a bit later than we had on Saturday. We didn’t have a summit to try for, and almost our entire trail was downhill… which would speed our pace, and was absolutely critical to my sanity for the morning. I could (and did) survive some uphill… but the lake and some ibuprofen could only do so much, and my poor legs had performed right up to their peak over the two days prior.

We took a detour to visit a small spring at the base of our campsite, maybe 300ft below the lake, and to see the waterfall that it turned into later on. We hiked, chatted, and took semi-frequent breaks to snap pictures of the stunning scenery surrounding us.

That didn’t slow our pace though, and we made excellent time – finding ourselves back at the trailhead far earlier than I would have guessed.




A final group meeting was had, and the climb was officially over.

We did an outbrief, discussed lunch, and made our way to burritos in a small tourist town called Detroit. On the way, I picked up a few hitchhikers from Bangkok who were hiking the PCT, and the whole team had lunch (together with the backpackers) at an excellent pod of food trucks off the side of the highway. We traded stories, learned a bit about their slice of the world (Both were ex-pats, one from the States, the other from London), and finally said our goodbyes for the day.

I drove home, left my gear in the spare room, and drew myself a much-needed Epson salt bath.





P.S. – I just got an email from another team who was on the mountain! They got pictures of us on the summit!

BCEP – Snow School weekend!

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Who are the Mazamas, you may ask? And what’s BCEP, you may enquire? Well, let me fill you in dear reader. When I first moved to Oregon, I pretty quickly heard about a mountaineering group in town called The Mazamas.

Similar to the AMC back in Boston, they teach classes and do conservation outreach projects. Over the years, I’d interacted with them tangentially – attending a few classes, volunteering with a few groups, but I’d never been able to actually take a course officially. I’d applied to their Advanced Rock climbing class, but wasn’t accepted for one reason or another.

Now, nearly seven years after first moving to Oregon, I was trying again. This time beginning at the bottom – while you may notice that I’m not quite a beginner when it comes to the outdoors, I was tired. These last few years haven’t been easy, and I was just tired of fighting… the chance to just sit back and meet new people while enjoying a few group hikes was more than worth the price of admission.



Friday and Saturday, 08-Apr-2022 and 09-Apr-2022


Friday

Do you know how long it’s been since I went camping in the snow?

It’s weird to think about… in 2021, I was out constantly – maybe not every weekend, but I’d gotten quite a few backpacking trips under my belt by this time last year. Most, if not all, of them on snow.

This year, I hadn’t. Even before starting BCEP and (happily) sacrificing my weekends to the altar of training hikes, I hadn’t felt the drive to get outside and into the snow. I mean… I’d wanted to! Don’t get me wrong – I adore being out in the blizzards, forging my way through the snow drifts and setting up camp like the intrepid arctic (couch) explorer that I am! But… I just hadn’t quite had the same drive as I did in 2021.

Regardless, I found myself packed up for a winter adventure, front of the car aimed at the base of Mt. Hood. Not my usual destination of Timberline Lodge, or the White River Glacier, or even Elk Meadows though… instead, I’d be visiting a new lodge for the first time… the Mazama’s lodge!

A quick note: I’m stubborn. It was beautiful in Wilsonville, so I had the top down on the car. I wanted to roll up to the parking lot with the top down, just because it would be fun… you know? So when it started drizzling, I didn’t pull over. I was driving fast enough, the rain wouldn’t get in.

Then it started raining… but the same logic applied.

Once the hail came… I couldn’t keep that logic going. Hail hurts, man, and the passenger’s seat was quickly filling up with hailstones…



Anyways, I stopped, and soon enough I was heading to the Mazama’s Lodge, with the top up.

Now, I almost feel like I was cheating on the NUHOC Loj, here. I mean, the Brown Memorial Loj will always hold a place in my memory… but it’s long gone now – burned down in a fire back around 2014. It’s being rebuilt, of course, but… the challenges of our modern society (modern litigious society, specifically) have made that pretty bad.

So allow me a bit of melancholy when I say that the Mazamas Lodge was amazing, and that it happily reminds me of the place that helped forge me into the outdoors lover that I am today.


My first view of the NUHOC Loj was walking up in the fall, and seeing the warm light of the kitchen shining out from the hillside. Appropriate, then, that my first view of the Mazamas Lodge was the same – though in the early evening, with the light shining out across the snowy hillside.

We camped outside of the Lodge that night, so that people unaccustomed to the snow could have a chance to practice setting up a tent in the snow… and more importantly, sleeping in the snow and wind and cold.

Just because we were camping, though, didn’t mean we didn’t hang out in the Lodge itself.

Dinner was Chili, with cornbread and salad, and it was simply amazing. After dinner was equally amazing – We relaxed and chatted and I explored the Lodge a bit. It’s three stories, instead of the Loj’s two, but it’s a very similar floorplan. Bunkrooms up top, kitchen and social area below, mudroom in the basement.

We did a quick avalanche rescue scenario after we ate, as an intro to using Avalanche Beacons, wands, and shovels… but overarchingly we just relaxed before the day of snow practice ahead of us. We talked, traded stories, and had a grand old time before retiring out to the windy, snowy, glorious evening.


Saturday

Saturday morning, I was up and mobile nice and early.

The coffee in the Lodge was calling – as was the cereal, fruits, and… egg quiche, I think? I mean, we’re not talking a full “pancakes and bacon” situation, but… man. Just as good as anything I make while backpacking, and a heck of a lot easier.

Once fed, I finished packing up my bag – just in time to head out with the group for our adventure of the day – Snow School!


Now, I’ve had a fair number of experiences in the snow… but I freely admit, Glacier travel is not my strong suit. Crevasse navigation isn’t a major skill of mine, and while I know vaguely how to place a picket… well, I was very much looking forward to this class. Lots of new skills, and lots of chances to practice rarely-used techniques.

The weather obliged us with an absolutely stunning vista – Unfortunately though, my stalwart phone was betrayed by my bad memory and died just as we arrived… after having survived the entire morning on 1%, making it just long enough to make sure I’d woken up on time. Thankfully, it lasted just long enough to get a few shots of the beautiful wind-blown snowfields that were our playground for the day…

What adventures did we get up to?

Well! The amazing assistants set up a whole slew of courses for us to practice! We got to:
– Rappel on a snow anchor!
– Glissade (slide) down a hill!
– Ascent a rope in the snow!
– Travel on a rope team in the snow! I even got to (poorly) set pickets, thanks to the teachers letting me take the lead! Turns out – a lot more complicated and time consuming than I realized.
– Self Arrest! (Where you catch yourself when you fall, using an ice axe)
– And probably others that I’m forgetting!

Throughout the whole adventure, everyone was in amazing spirits – The snow wasn’t consistent, so we kept getting glimpses of sky and sun through the flurries… the only real consistency was how quickly the weather would change, and how much fun I was having playing in the snow.

Because, at the end of the day, let’s be real here. Yeah, I was learning and practicing and being serious… but the whole time was also blatantly playing in the snow. I love things like this, and I had an absolute blast every second of the adventure.

Soon enough, though, it was time to pack it in and move it out. I got the chance to help pack some of the gear up, but we were all pretty quickly heading down the road and out of the snow, toward a glorious BBQ dinner a little ways down into the foothills.

Sunday, 24-Feb-2019 – Hiking to Angels Rest, Columbia River Gorge

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Sunday, 24-Feb-2019

 

Sarah and I have been having rather amazingly relaxing weekends – getting things done around the house, decompressing from the weeks, and trying to keep calm amid the swirling chaos of my new job and Sarah’s art fair deadlines.

For the most part, we’re doing well and staying sane.

But… it’s not easy, and sometimes what we need is an escape into the mountains.  Or, in this case, the cliffs of the gorge.

 

This weekend was kind of rough, starting out… we knew that we wanted to go on some sort of adventure, but couldn’t decide what to do or where to go.  The mountains of the Pacific Northwest had gotten hit pretty hard the previous week with snow, so all the major peaks were under avalanche warning – those weren’t an option.  Long drives were possible… but we honestly couldn’t see ourselves sitting in the car for four hours after the craziness of the week.

We ended up cutting ourselves some slack, and taking it easy: The Columbia River Gorge is right in our back yard, after all, so why not take advantage of that?  Especially when it’s being blanketed in a new coat of light snow!

 

We packed the night before, poured a thermos of coffee that morning, and drove in.

Honestly, there’s not much to say about the hike.  It was simple, it was beautiful, and it was easy.  It was, with all of those, exactly what we needed.  A chance to get into the woods, to feel the wind and the snow, and to enjoy the stillness of the winter air.  Or, the stillness of the air being broken by the sound of Ollie sprinting up and down the trail, loving every second of being able to play in the snow.

It was a good hike.