Category Archives: Rock Climbing

Stories from Rock Climbing, or something in that general area

Jun20

The first climbing competition in years – Movement Friction Series 2023

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Saturday, 06-May-2023

I competed in a climbing competition!

Seriously! I can’t believe how long it’s been since I’ve been to a climbing comp… there’ve been a few here in Portland, since COVID, but… for one reason or another none of them quite worked out. And, let’s be clear here, when I say “a few”, I mean “one or two”, at least as far as I can remember, so… we’re not talking about a weekly occurrence here.

When I found out that there’d be a comp at my home gym? Well! Excitement abounded.



I… uhh… don’t really know where to go from here, with writing about the comp.

I mean, it was fun, right? All climbing competitions are excellent – they’re a chance for the gym to show off its stuff, for the route-setters to step up their game a bit, and go above and beyond the usual type of routes. For competitions, the climbs are almost always special in some way – the route-setters use non-standard holds, they add more “terrain features”, if you will, and they add a bit of style and panache to the gym for a few weeks.

It’s awesome, and fun, but at the end of the day it’s a bit hard to describe in a blog…

Instead, I’ll focus on how amazing it felt to compete again.

Yeah, the gym was absolutely packed full. And yeah, we ended up waiting in lines a bit longer than I’d normally be patient for. And sure, if I’d had more time to climb I could have placed higher (Ed Note: Ben actually projected it out, and if he’d arrived at the beginning of the competition, he could have tied for first in his division. Yeah, seriously.) but… at the end, I had a blast.

I felt strong. I felt good, and I felt like I’ve made some real progress in the past few years. Sure, I’ve gotten stronger… but more importantly, I’ve started regrowing into myself – restarting those parts of me that I’d powered down in the past.

I felt strong, I climbed strong… and I was strong. Both mentally and physically.

Jun12

A spring day on the rock at Ozone

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**Note this was posted on 06-July-2023, but is backdated to 12-June, so that it fits in with the correct timeline. Apologies!!**


29-Apr-2023


Holy crap it was hot.

Like… April, man… why was it hitting 90s? Global Warming my rear… this is Global boiling. Global blow-torching. Global “It’s getting too hot!”-ing!

Anyways Jess and I went climbing!

It’s been a while since I’ve been to Ozone, so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect… but thankfully, Mountain Project was there to help guide us, and my memory wasn’t quite as bad as I was worried it might be. Minimal exploration was needed, and lots of great climbing was had!

I didn’t end up taking any pictures, since photography while climbing is a bit hard… I’m either climbing, or belaying, and neither option lends itself to free hands. If you’ll forgive the lack of photography, though, I do have a list of climbing that we rocked!

Simple and easy ones, I didn’t push too hard… though that final 10a was definitely an appreciated challenge! The rest were simple – stretching my muscles, letting Jess break back into outdoor climbing… it was a good day, in no uncertain terms.



Routes:
– Wellwisher, 5.6, Trad, Lead!
– The Beared Lady, 5.6, Mixed, Lead!
– Pippin, 5.6, Trad, Lead!
– Merry, 5.7, Sport, Lead!
– Prancing Pony, 5.7, Trad, Lead!
– Bag Ends, 5.7, Trad, Lead!
– Mirkwood, 5.10a, Top Rope!

May8

BCEP – Climbing at Windy Slab

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Last year, I took the BCEP class with the Mazamas – Basic Climbing Education Program. It was interesting; a great chance to review my well-trained skills, practice some that I hadn’t used in ages, and get to meet some new climbing and outdoors people. It was fun, and ticked all the boxes that I had hoped that it would.

My faith in the outdoors community reinvigorated, I quickly and happily volunteered to help teach BCEP this year. I was expecting to assist with the same group that I’d taken the class with the previous year, since leaders tend to continue teaching year over year, so I was a bit surprised when I was placed with a different group… but it turns out, this new group was just starting out – the first year the leader had led a BCEP team on their own.

The chance to help out with a new group, and to help build a similar culture of excitement and optimism for the outdoors? All while getting to show people the unbridled joy of rock climbing? Of seeing new views off the side of a mountain?

Well. Sign me right the heck up.


Saturday, 08-Apr-2023


After we finished up Hamilton Mountain, there was one more adventure of the day planned. Nothing big, and nothing too far… but an adventure I was exceptionally excited for nonetheless.

Why, you may ask?

It was my first chance to explore a new crag in years!



Looking back on it, I think I’d heard of Windy Slab before. Probably briefly in passing, since it’s anything but a popular large crag, but still – When the group leader recommended it, I jumped at the opportunity to help set up routes for the group.

We arrived, did a bit of scouting, and moved the teams up to the rock. I set a route while the leader set the one next to me, and we started walking the students through the whole process of climbing in the great outdoors.

Before climbing, we talked through leading – how it varies from top roping, what considerations to take in, etc…

While climbing, the assistants pointed out the details of what we were doing.

At the end, I got to climb one of the harder routes available to retrieve the anchor… but unfortunately the students didn’t get a chance to see, since I didn’t climb slowly enough. Yep. Not even remotely humble-brag right there.


Hey, it was a 10a, I’m okay being a bit proud that I crushed it record time.



What routes did Ben climb?

Night Music – 5.6, Sport

Dark Apron – 5.10a, Top Rope