Monthly Archives: April 2018

Christmas in Italy – Il Duomo di Firenze

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Christmas in Italy – Il Duomo di Firenze

In keeping with the tradition of adventure, Sarah and I went on a big trip for Christmas and New Years!

This year, we met up with Sarah’s family in Italy, traveling to Rome and Florence; not quite a perfect midpoint for everyone, but it was close enough. And, also, you know. Rome. Florence. Amazing!

Please forgive me for some of these being a bit out of order… the posts are organized somewhat chronologically… but also organized by theme and location.  Some may not be exactly in chronological order, so for reference please see the initial summary post, which has a complete day-by-day, blow-by-blow account of the adventure.

 

 

Tuesday, 02-Jan

In the heart of Florence is a huge cathedral called the Cattedrale Di Santa Maria del Fiore, or more commonly called  Il Duomo – named after the huge dome at the center of the building. It was by far the most popular attraction in Rome, separated into four different sections: The cathedral, the bell tower, the baptistery, and the dome itself.

We had initially planned on visiting on Saturday the 30th, but had run into the issue of tickets being sold out. Not just for the day, but for the next three days. So we had picked up tickets and headed out for our daily adventures, aiming to come back on Tuesday.

Our tickets had a time on them for the Dome itself, but the other three aspects were un-timed, basically a “go as you so choose” situation. We’d seen the lines back on the 30th, and consequently planned for a bit of queueing… but even with Bill and Greta’s Scottish queue-fu, we weren’t prepared for the lines we ran into.

Our Dome tickets were for 2:00, so we started by going into the cathedral… and no joke, the line was multiple hours. I honestly don’t remember exactly how long it is, and I don’t even have any notes on it. It was seriously so bad that I completely purged the memory from my brain. Thankfully we had six people, so we took shifts standing in the line itself; two people stood, while the other four explored and got breakfast.

 

We did eventually break through to the entrance, finally entering the main hall of the cathedral itself. It was beautiful, but honestly kind of underwhelming after just having been in Rome, and seeing the Basilica Majoris there. Not to say that it wasn’t beautiful, of course! The crypts below were especially interesting, since they gave a lot of information and detail about the originals of the cathedral, and thus the origins of most of Florence itself.

After the stress of queueing for the cathedral (and everyone getting a bit turned around in the crypts) we needed a rejuvination. And since the Duomo square is home to that amazing panini place that we went to on the 30th (Ed Note: See upcoming post on meals in Florence), we stopped in for a bite to eat and a drop to drink. As before, the panini were gloriously amazing, hand-crafted with the individual ingredients meticulously presented by the head chef.

Thus fortified, we stood in line again.

 

Turns out, the time on the tickets is… well, more of a guideline. That no one abides by. So not even a guideline at all, really.

We persevered though, and finally found ourselves thigh-mastering our way up roughly fifteen trillion stairs, winding ever upward.

Our views alternated between small stone passageways and grand vistas of the Duomo itself. The stairways seemed to originally be intended as maintenance corridors, or priest passageways, unintended for the number of people that were currently using them. But the views were worth the short bits of claustrophobia, as we repeatedly lost our breath at the beautiful art and sculptures that we were passing by.

The Duomo… I tried to take pictures of it, and you honestly can’t. I mean, maybe you can do a panorama, or one of those cool 3D pictures, but even those probably wouldn’t do justice to the sheer complexity of the composition. There were countless characters telling unnumbered stories, starting with heaven at the top and ending with a demon near the bottom. It was beautiful, soaring, and honestly breathtaking. Though our breath may have been taken by all the stairs, I guess.

After we passed above the catwalks around the Duomo itself, we continued upward along the outside of the Duomo, in between two layers of the “shell” that makes up the architecture itself. It was really cool, and almost felt like we were exploring some secret Indiana Jones style building.

Then, we broke out onto the top of the Duomo, with a soaring view of the entirety of Florence laid out below us. It was beautiful, and we spent a ton of time sightseeing, enjoying the breeze and the sun, and taking what probably amounted to a truly unnecessary number of selfies.

After our descent, we made a group decision: although our tickets could get us into the other two portions (the bell tower and the baptistery) we simply didn’t have the energy to survive any more lines.

And let’s be honest – the Duomo itself was beautiful, so it’s a pretty good note to end on, don’t you think?

Christmas in Italy – Florentine Street Art

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Christmas in Italy – Florentine Street Art

In keeping with the tradition of adventure, Sarah and I went on a big trip for Christmas and New Years!

This year, we met up with Sarah’s family in Italy, traveling to Rome and Florence; not quite a perfect midpoint for everyone, but it was close enough. And, also, you know. Rome. Florence. Amazing!

Please forgive me for some of these being a bit out of order… the posts are organized somewhat chronologically… but also organized by theme and location.  Some may not be exactly in chronological order, so for reference please see the initial summary post, which has a complete day-by-day, blow-by-blow account of the adventure.

 

Various days while we were in Florence

Street Art – it can be spray paint tags, stencils, or huge murals. It’s one of my favorite things to look for when I travel to a new city, I feel like it gives me a rare look into the psyche of the city, and a glimpse into what the people who actually live here enjoy and appreciate.

Rome did have some street art, but it was pretty few and far between… whether this was due to city laws, the fact that there were so many statues, or something else, I couldn’t tell. Florence, however, was alive with random small little stencils and sprays.

I didn’t see any graffiti or tags, such as you’d see in a subway tunnel in New York City, but I did see a lot of little artistic sprays around the side streets. There was one series of famous paintings, but stenciled with the subjects wearing swimming goggles, that became a minor obsession of mine. Every time we saw a new one, I’d get super excited and stop to take a quick picture.

So, please sit back and enjoy the following two galleries: The Swimming Goggle Collection, and the Street Art of Florence collection.

 

Christmas in Italy – Visiting the legendary Accademia Gallery!

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Christmas in Italy – Visiting the legendary Accademia Gallery!

In keeping with the tradition of adventure, Sarah and I went on a big trip for Christmas and New Years!

This year, we met up with Sarah’s family in Italy, traveling to Rome and Florence; not quite a perfect midpoint for everyone, but it was close enough. And, also, you know. Rome. Florence. Amazing!

Please forgive me for some of these being a bit out of order… the posts are organized somewhat chronologically… but also organized by theme and location.  Some may not be exactly in chronological order, so for reference please see the initial summary post, which has a complete day-by-day, blow-by-blow account of the adventure.

 

Saturday, 30-Dec-2018

 

Our visit to the Accademia was a bit unplanned – we hadn’t aimed to go today, but we found ourselves with a fair bit of time free, and quite literally ran into the entrance line while wandering around. Since we’re here, let’s see some sculptures!

But before we see art, we have to wait. The lines in Florence are impressive – earlier in the day we’d tried to get tickets to the Duomo, a famous church dome, and found that the line was over four hours long… to use tickets purchased three days prior. The Accademia isn’t quite that long of a line, but it still look all of Bill and Greta’s queueing prowess to see us through it quickly and sanely. Upside of them moving to Scotland – they are pros at the British art of the queue.

 

Once we’re inside, we find a museum setup that I’m pretty used to – instead of the usual single-track path, the Accademia has a whole series of interconnected galleries, just like the Museum of Science in Boston, or the Portland Art Museum.

Map in hand, we systematically work our way through, staying as a group and learning / joking about the exhibits. I think a lot of us had started hitting the saturation point, in terms of museuming, so we started breaking down a little bit… not in a bad way, but in a giggling, “hehe look at the baby faces with wings! This one is eating St. John’s toe!” sort of way.

Yep. Baby faces with wings. Turns out, everyone paints angels slightly differently. These ones were disembodied baby heads with six wings.

 

On a different note from baby heads – we saw the oldest known violin! This one was Leah’s goal in the Accademia – She’s a quite skilled musician, so getting to see the old instruments exhibit was her version of what the DaVinci museum was for me – the rest of us were a bit lost, but she was getting to see the origins of her entire style of music. Pretty amazing.

Ohh, yeah. There was the one other sculpture in the Accademia. The one by the famous guy? Maybe you’ve heard of “David”?

Yep. David was there, in all his naked, ripped glory.

First off – dude’s tall. 20Ft tall. I was not aware that David was that big – we learned that the block of marble was strictly controlled, and was only awarded to the absolute best sculptor, due to its size and perfection… kind of neat, and the end result was obviously worth that investment. The way it was displayed was also really neat – the path to David was lined with unfinished sculptures, seemingly showing figures forming out of the rock itself. And then, in this distance, the perfect figure standing in glory. Really great curation.

The rest of the museum was sort of like the Vatican, unfortunately. It was very interesting, but just so crowded that it was almost impossible to really appreciate any individual piece. That wasn’t a huge loss though, since most of the pieces past David were casts or models… test pieces for other pieces spread across the world. They were interesting, but most had some sort of irregularity or imperfection… which was just that much more obvious after seeing David.

The Accademia was honestly amazing though, and the chance to see it was well worth the initial line.