Monthly Archives: August 2015

Leaving California behind, and driving up the Oregon coast

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Wednesday, 17-June-2015

Another driving post – that’s the key to a good adventurous road trip. You’ve got balance the opposing ideals of exploration and movement.

Granted, you could say “Ohh, but driving IS exploring!” but… you’d be wrong. Even driving down small-town roads, through hamlets and past cafes, is still driving. You’re not stopping, and you’re not seeing what the place actually has to offer. And even if you stop into a cafe – you’re just another tourist. You’d have to explore a few places to get a feel… and then you’re not driving anymore, are you?

But anyways. Here’s the breakdown of the drive from Tree of Heaven, California to Fort Stevens, Oregon:

  • We left Tree of Heaven early – We had to do a pretty damn long drive in a single day… especially since we’re taking the scenic route, instead of the quick route. So up and out of camp early was the name of the game.
  • After a quick stop at the grocery for lunch materials, we’re off!
  • Driving is pretty – getting into Oregon is boring, but once we’ve moved off the main highway and onto the back roads that will take us out to the coast, it gets really amazing really quickly.
    The basic route that we took was I-5 North, then connecting to the 101 Northbound via… 303, I think? Either way, I-5 is boring as really boring things. The rest..
  • We passed through lots of small towns – but not the “this small town died years ago” places that I saw in other portions of my roadtrip. These towns have always been small… and they’re staying right as they are. It’s not a place that’s seen people running away; instead, they seem content to have their little gas station, town hall, and grocery store, and not much else.
    The biggest thing that I noticed: not many boarded up windows, thankfully.
  • We finally make the turn onto the coastal road (the 101 ), and… it’s not really on the coast. Booo…
    Ohh wait. Yep. That’s the coast. Holy crap. It’s amazing.
  • Seriously, so beautiful.
  • I don’t mean to rub it in, but… Super awesome.
  • We keep moving on, following switchbacks and curves and roads with sheer drops on the side. We make a stop at a national park called “The Dunes of Oregon” for a lunch break – I wasn’t aware that Oregon had dunes We head out from the cars, and… yep. These are Cape Cod level dunes. Legit stuff, with lots of sand. So we settled in, made sandwiches, ate, and enjoyed ourselves. I did some spinning and Mike waded out into the ocean because he’s a water elemental that needs to be in the ocean every so often. It was amazing and excellent.
  • Keep pushing through tons of beautiful small towns and neat places.
  • Each cove is more beautiful than the last… we’re seriously just moving deeper into an amazing wilderness of awesome.
  • We make a quick stop into the Tillamook outlet – a west-coast ice cream and cheese place. It’s super delicious, and the tour is delicious too. I mean, they also tell us stuff about things, but I wasn’t paying attention. I was eating free samples of cheese. And eating huge samplers of ice cream. Not at the same time though. But now I want to try that.
  • We do finally make it through to camp though – It was a long drive, but thankfully the end was pretty easy, since Fort Stephens has tons of signage, and we arrived before dusk had really settled in. We then found the campsite, signed in, got out stuff out of the cars and set up!

Exploring the Tree of Heaven area, Northern California.

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Exploring the Tree of Heaven area, Northern California.

Tuesday, 16-June-2015

We’d done a pretty good drive the day before – not the longest day that I’d done on the roadtrip, but it was a solid route and a good few miles that we’d burned away. But Mike, Liz and I are awesome, and being tired from a long drive was no reason for us to get up late.

I mean… we didn’t jump out of the tents at 5:30 or anything. But we didn’t sleep all the way to noon either. So I’ll take it as a win. Especially since I had oatmeal with blueberries and coffee ready before noon too!

Our first non-breakfast goal was to hit up Yreka (pronounced why-ree-kah) and figure out what we wanted to do with the day. It was nice and simple actually – we went to the DoA center, talked to the rangers there, realized that all they really do is give out logging permits, then just picked a random peak to walk up to. We also found a cave nearby that we picked as a secondary goal – if we summited easily, we’d hit the cave afterward.

I ate a corndog at the grocery store. I… I figure that should be recorded somewhere. It was tasty.

The peak we picked was a fire tower at the top of Lookout mountain. Or… it was called Lookout? Not really sure – I still have the map that we bought, but it’s not the most helpful thing ever. But it was enough for us to drive up a terrifyingly narrow logging road (and we only got run off the road by a logging truck once!) and find the trailhead.

Spoiler: The trailhead was another logging road. But an even more narrow road that we didn’t want to try driving up. So we started walking, and kept walking down the extremely dusty path ’till we found the fire tower.

Once there, we met the tower keeper who seemed kind of surprised to see hikers, and more than a little put-out that we’d intruded on her solitude. So we didn’t spend much time intruding – we signed the log book, made some epic sandwiches (fresh baguette, meat, brie, tomato, apple) and headed back down to the car, and to another sketchy drive back down the logging roads.

I mean, the views were pretty excellent… but we were in the middle of logging country. So the mountains were scarred with roads and bare patches and dust. Better than sitting in the city, but a far cry from the beauty of the New Hampshire wilderness.

So we hit camp to grab headlamps and lights, and moved on our secondary goal – Pluto’s cave. Named after the god of the underworld, and into who’s realm the caves supposedly lead.

Finding them took a little effort, but once we escaped from the western version of deliverance (seriously, we saw gated / walled compounds/houses, all with “keep out” signs and some even with watch towers) we parked and walked in via a pretty simple & lightly traveled path. The trail slowly got rockier, and the rocks slowly changed from sandstone to volcanic.

Then, we saw the hole in the ground. And we descended into darkness.

Actually, we went the wrong way first. But then we descended into darkness. Impressively complete darkness, and darkness that seemed to always hide something creepy in the shadows… but thankfully those shadows always resolved back into rocks or patches of sand – anything creepy was just in our minds (Ed note: Or so Ben thinks!!! Muahahaha!!)

But the last part we saw? The bit that convinced us to turn around? THAT was legitimately creepy. I mean seriously, and as soon as I saw it, I understood why the caves were originally thought to lead to the underworld.

As we had been going deeper, the walls had stayed mostly the same. Simple volcanic rock, with the bumpy and sharp features that one would expect from an old lava tube. But then the rock suddenly changed. The fracture planes aligned, and the cave changed from a round tunnel into a corridor.

The walls were flat – they looked like they’d been carved centuries ago. The ceiling above us was vaulted, with ribs holding up the A-frame of the rock. And it was huge – at least 50ft wide, and maybe 75ft tall. And the cracks on the wall aligned just right to make it look like the walls were made up of large blocks, all aligned and mortared together.

I honestly thought we’d walked into an old dwarven fortress, or an ancient vault built by giants.

Logically, I knew that this was just a coincidence of the rock – like I said, the fracture planes aligned, and propagated together. It makes sense in theory. But seeing it in person… we didn’t go into that area. We took a few pictures & some classy selfies, and moved along back to camp, to make dinner and relax.

Driving from Davis to Tree of Heaven

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Monday, 15-Jun-2015

So on Monday, basically everyone was slightly hung over. I… yeah. I definitely was. Good life decisions aside, it’d been a wild night at Casa-De-Levasseur. Pool parties are not my area of expertise, but I can confidently state that it was an excellent example.

So while I did wake up at my usual early time, I didn’t get out of bed for a while. I spent the morning relaxing and browsing imgur, enjoying the last wifi that I’d be getting for a good while. A little under a week. Hush. I enjoyed it.

Then Mike woke up, I mobilized, Liz came over, and we rocked our way out to a diner called Black Bear Diner.

We actually went to a diner farther away from Davis – the one right in town was packed full of people, even on a Monday morning… damn college kids, and their “moving out” shenanigans.

But diners are diners, and breakfast is breakfasts. And Ben + Pancakes + Bacon = happy, and ready for a drive from Davis up into Northern California. We did make a quick stop into a town called Redding (pronounced same as “Reading” in Mass…) to grab some last minute gear, and hear an impromptu lecture on the evils of REI from the store owner, but aside from that it was a clean drive.

And that’s a big thing that I came to accept on this roadtrip. I knew it about myself already, but I never really put it to words – I love driving. The serenity of the road, especially driving a car that doesn’t really let you space out too much, really makes me happy.